Dear Rei Kawakubo, have you been looking inside my head? ‘Cause we’re on the same page with spooky schoolboy style, aren’t we? Nice one. Fond regards, Rebecca. Of course I’m not for one moment suggesting that Ms. Kawakubo knows the first thing about my existence, let alone my tiny wee brain, but who’s to say no to a moment of whimsy now and again? Anyway, moving on to the real subject at hand: Comme des Garcon’s latest Homme Plus collection, and how much I love it. Titled ‘Neither Man nor Woman’, I think it would be a supreme example of lazy journalism to just talk about how it’s men wearing [...]
Tokyo Fashion Week is almost upon as again and given that S/S 2012 is just hitting retail and we have already seen what Paris sees for next winter, I think it is just about the time to get stuck into the next season in Tokyo. Obviously things are never simple with Tokyo Fashion Week, as when I use that term I am referring to the official schedule set out by JFW (Japan Fashion Week), now re-born as Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo, as well as the unofficial schedule broadly organized by the CFD. Oddly enough, while there are less catwalk shows that occur outside of the official schedule (but at the same time), the number [...]
Remain Silent is a relatively new brand, and my first contact was when their catalogue was thrust into my hands along with the words “it’s a bit like Comme des Garcons!” – how on earth could I resist? Although Comme des Garcons comparisons are rarely on the mark (how could anyone but Rei Kawakubo envision such a consistently unique outcome?), but in this I think it’s pretty well justified as half of the creative partnership behind Remain Silent (Kenji Takenouchi and Satoshi Ishihara) worked as a pattern-maker for CdG – Takenouchi now brings his vision to his own brand, and of course us consumers are the lucky ones who benefit! I [...]
Tatsuro Horikawa’s brand Julius is arguably the most important menswear brand in Japanese fashion today. No other brand reaches the avant-garde on the hunt for fashion as a means of artistic expression, while at the same time appeasing lovers of artisanal perfection looking for the perfect blend of silk woven through python skin, while also being the aspirational option for street punks of the Tokyo underground, and somehow not forget salary men who can only wear Julius on the weekends. It is a perfect balancing act of inclusivity, which might surprise given how progressive and subversive Julius actually is, but it is the kind of fashion that does not put people off [...]
I think it’s high time we delved into the wonderful world of vintage boutiques in Tokyo again, right? Our focus today is on DaiDai in Koenji, and it’s guaranteed to put a smile on your face… Under the same umbrella as the marvellous Green Dot (coming up on Tokyo Telephone very soon!), DaiDai is almost literally a riot of colour – you’d better bring your sunglasses! Hidden in the backstreets of Koenji and jostling with its fellow vintage neighbours, DaiDai really manages to stand out, and is a great example of the focused aesthetic that makes Japanese vintage shops really unique – here you’ll find rag dolls, pin badges, cute [...]
CLICK TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE →
Mihara Yasuhiro (or Miharayasuhiro) enlisted his friend Miyavi to provide the soundtrack to his A/W 2012-13 collection shown as part of Paris Fashion Week. It certainly was all that was needed to set the scene for the show, which was a pleasantly refined affair taking in plenty of streetwear friendly military themes but combining them unashamedly Japanese touches throughout. It is still something of a rarity to use traditional Japanese imagery and fabrics in these kind of international fashion settings, but as a resident Japanese fashion-phile it is something a genuinely feel has unexplored depths even in this day and age. In this collection Mihara Ysuhiro was having fun bringing together 19th century tailoring and military with [...]
CLICK TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE →
It’s probably not really necessary to bang on at length about my love for Yohji Yamamoto (or Saint Y, as he’s affectionately known as at Telephone Towers), but nonetheless, bang on I shall… I’m still headlong in my menswear phase, and what better celebration of modern male dress than Yohji Yamamoto? Not content with revolutionising womenswear and empowering generations of women through clothing and design, Yamamoto also lends his twinkly-eyed talent to gents too – lucky! I’ve previously mentioned the variety of models that make their way down the catwalk, and I’m happy to say that the men, young and old and skinny and portly, have returned. I’d really like to [...]
CLICK TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE →
I only rarely go “off topic” and talk about something outside the Japanese fashion remit, but then again you cannot deny how important Rick Owens is in the world of Japanese fashion and moreover his work is very important to me personally. One of my favorite haunts of the Aoyama area is the Rick Owens flagship replete with a “Godzilla” waxwork version of the nude Rick Owens himself sporting a wooden claw and not a lot else. It is a shop that manages to create its very own atmosphere free from the saturation and haste of Tokyo aside, austere and stern, but at the same time populated entirely by heavily [...]
CLICK TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE →
So – who wants some colour? As always, I feel like there’s an out-of-sync feeling feeling between fashion season and the reality of the current weather, and as I’m excitedly pawing through the autumn winter 2012 Paris collections, here in Japan fashion is gearing up for spring and summer. I can’t wait to start taking ridiculous photos in cherry blossom season, but I will miss crazy amounts of layering when the temperature starts to heat up. Talking of all things hot hot hot, here’s RBT X CO! Having been on the scene for three years now, and currently stocked in Chelsea at La Foret in Harajuku, this Osaka-based brand is [...]
CLICK TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE →
Makin Jan Ma is one designer who I would feel remiss if I neglected of a season, the London based Japanese designer’s character based collections always do well in Candy, Fake Tokyo and his leather jackets remain a wardrobe stable for many a Tokyo gent. I have gone on at great length in the past about how much I admire his approach of designing his collections as a wardrobe for a singular character, which I think is spot-on for a designer of his size who can afford to embrace a niche clientele entirely sold on his vision. Today I have his men’s designed for a character called “Guts Olo” and his women’s “Dee Snow” which along with his other female [...]
CLICK TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE →
Continuing on ongoing project showcasing the the best and most beautiful vintage shopping experiences in Tokyo, today we’re very proud and excited to feature Gaijin, a vintage boutique in Koenji. Even though I kind of prefer the darker side of fashion, I always pop in to Gaijin whenever I have time – I love the pastel colours and calming atmosphere, as well as spotting lots of cats and unicorns all around the lovely little shop! Gaijin is owned by a charming couple (alas out scouting for new treasures in London when we took these photos), and while the wife runs Gaijin, the husband is in charge of KuroBenz’ more masculine [...]
CLICK TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE →
Time is ever charging on in the fashion world, leaving me with very little time to round up the best from last fashion week before we are treated to the A/W 2012 offerings from Tokyo very soon indeed. One of the collections that I could not let get unnoticed is this great debut collection from new brand Mabuya Mabuya. The illustrious backing of the brand that accompanies designer Koichiro Higa are a team who cut their proverbial teeth at Jean Paul Gaultier and Opening Ceremony, and the brand has already built up quite a head of steam with a high profile showing at Fashion Week Berlin. Given that the brand had already [...]
CLICK TO READ THE FULL ARTICLE →
Tokyo Tumblrphone
