Following on from my little introduction to KMRii, I thought it was only right that I delved into the second part of the story – 14th Addiction, who unlike KMRii have their own flagship that opened a couple of months ago in Minami Aoyama. Outside of that you would be hard pushed to find any significant differences between the two brands really, not that that is a bad thing in the least, it is just that when the designers have worked together so often it is only to be expected that their will be some serious cross-over (especially as they work out of the same studio). 14th Addiction tends to concentrate on a more nomad-inspired vision of post-apocalyptic street style but clearly enjoys adding in touches of the urban into his viscerally organic creations.
Continue reading for the usual brand profile and history, some amazing mocassins and even a newspaper-print leather jacket – enjoy:
The brand image of 14th Addiction has always been slightly more literal than KMRii’s abstract saturation of detail. For example, 14th Addiction will use conchos, buckles, etc that are features in themselves – usually US Western or Mexican inspired, and he holds back on detail to create a slightly simpler overall image than KMRii. But still, by normal standards the detail is layered on pretty damn thick.
14th Addiction has definitely become more and more nomad inspired over time as these shots from the current collection show.
Back in 2009 the look was more urban:
And in 2008 A/W you can see a more obvious street wear vibe:
And prior to that, the look was obviously set in an urban, industrial atmosphere:
As you can see if you are a fan of the Shibuya / Harajuku men’s scene you can see that all these looks have followed the trends of the times to a certain extent, but they have managed to retain that core aesthetic. Like KMRii the focus of the brand is the pursuit of the eternally cool, which rebellion will always be – whether it is the anarchist within society or the nomad who rejects it.
You have the aesthetic, here are my picks for individual items:
Definitely slightly cleaner and retrained than KMRii and they even do items that could fit into a more mainstream wardrobe:
But I do like how even the relatively simple hoodie is crammed with attitude – separate hood, leather pockets and cords as well as a great dirty print.
Personally the restrained take on the nomad look reminds me of Yasuyuki Ishii, but the latter being a little more futurist and fashion forward. If anything 14th Addiction is a more classic look, but done with modern flair. I suppose it is quite ironic how many cutting edge technological treatments go into distressing the leather and metal to get this antique worn look…
For me the greatest thing about 14th Addiction and KMRii is that the two guys behind them respectively actually lead the lifestyle (this is them pictured at Burning Man). You can tell that at their core they are making clothes that they want to wear and by having that actual invested personal interest, they push themselves onwards to create the best examples around of this aesthetic.
Logistics wise this is stocked in the flagship and a couple of select-shops around Japan (and one in Germany). Pricing comes in very favorably to other domestic brands but because most things are made on a one-off basis they can really vary enormously.
I hope you have enjoyed this little look at one of my favorite brands, the apocalypse cannot come soon enough as far as I am concerned!