Rounding off of coverage of the A/W 2012-13 collections from Dissborn and Christian Dada is 99%IS, a Korean designer based in Tokyo, who like so many who have shot to fame in the last couple of years, started working as a re-make designer before that won him the capital to start a brand proper. Fame is a particularly appropriate word about this guy, as not only did he dress Lady Gaga last time she was in town, but you will have also seen his work in every single Christian Dada collection Tokyo Fashion Week collection to date, as well as the latest from Dissborn. Saying that, designer Bajowoo still lives a proper punk lifestyle, and when he hasn’t been slamming in studs for a living is always at the heart of the Tokyo punk scene and generally living by the “99 percent is …” mantra.
However, with his winter 2012 collection 99%IS has finally shown that there is more to studs with this guy. Don’t get me wrong, his studding is good, and has managed to stand out in a Tokyo positively swimming in the things thanks to his nice eye for exaggerating the lines of the original item of clothing, but it is great to see that there is the mind of a creator amidst the destruction.
His creative flair is exemplified in his deconstructed leather items, such as chaps that only cover the upper thigh that are to worn layered, leather collars on t-shirts, and leather breast plates on wool coats. On the versions without the studs it all feels surprisingly classy and restrained which probably explains why the magazine Choki Choki had an editorial with his work earlier this year. Obviously the best pieces are those that combine a clever bit of studding with a nice bit of unconventional leather placement – which is nicely captured in his lookbook:
That poncho is absolutely genius, and I should also add at this point, that all his leather is Japanese as well.
These two looks are perfect examples of his skill in breaking up conventional items of clothing with a degree of subtlety you probably weren’t expecting.
Kudos as ever must go to Candy at Fake Tokyo for stocking this guy right from the start and nurturing him to the level he is at today. His ultra clean punk vision might not be all that new, but he has nailed it and put it at a pretty good price point to boot. Between Christian Dada, Dissborn and 99%IS, I would say that this winter things are certainly looking good for this next generation of Tokyo punks.