Aguri Sagimori is on fine form this season doing what she does best with a hyper feminine collection straight from the boudoir packed with leather, lace and the kind of fine detailing that other designers tease you with in the styling, but she actually takes the care to make sure is present and correct off the rack. This season Aguri is flirting with the ballet, a subject that lends itself to her idealized and graceful femininity. But never one to rest on her laurels, she makes sure that it retains an edge by just pushing the formula a bit too far for the comfort of the mainstream, employing references to lingerie in the outerwear and bringing in a solid dose of sumptuous furs and sleazy oiled leathers.
The other major component to the Aguri Sagimori world is her obsession with anthropomorphization, something which surprised me a whole lot less once I found out she shares an atelier with the head designer of Bortsprungt who employs similar themes in their output. Aguri takes it in a little more of an aggressive direction, adding fur to jackets to suggest the wearer is transforming as they put it on, but there are more literal references t0o in the form of prints for people who want a less confrontational reading of the idea.
Kicking off we start with a cardigan with just a hint of lace and the outline of a bustier,
before heading into the idea of the private boudoir being worn on the outside.
But it is not all delicacy, the cuts here are broad, with oversized shoulders and armor-esque lapels.
Back to the ballet.
The care on this skirt is really something to behold in person, ironically it takes a huge amount of care to get this level of improvisation just right.
Into the overtly bestial and we have the standout sheep skin jacket on the right,
and some great mixed furs that you will be grateful for when the Tokyo summer finally subsides.
The printed items are always a safe bet for Japan and hopefully they are not too much for buyers from abroad.
As ever Aguri rounded off the collection with a couple of atelier pieces produced as the mood takes her. These form the inspirations that are then diluted elsewhere in the line-up but they are still sold if you are in the market for something sensational.
In term of accessories, the emphasis is on muting classic glamour.
But there were a couple of deco surprises as well – maybe this is the direction we shall more of next season? Looking forward to it already!
For more on Aguri Sagimori she has a homepage here and her work is very popular abroad so there might well be a stockist close at hand.