Ably taking over the Limited Shop space in Takashimaya Shinjuku from Etw. Vonneguet (coverage here), is Aptform, coincidentally one of the other young designers who we are keenest on supporting as we head into Fashion Week (first show tomorrow!). Aptform’s monotone palette, painstakingly developed fabrics and treatments, and unisex silhouette couldn’t be a better fit for the mood of the moment, and as aesthetically simular brands such as Julius and The Viridi-Anne settle into their own respective styles, the stage is set for Aptform to get the attention it deserves. This is where the Takashimaya Limited Shop comes in, and although the dark edgy lines of Aptform may not be the most obvious match for a department store, seeing it in a well-lit environment, a world away from the concrete bunker that it ought to occupy, gave me a fresh appreciation for the subtle gradients of black, sheer jacquard blends and lazer distorted fabrics.
If you need a refresher on how this collection should be worn before we dive on it, then I suggest you check it the S/S 2012 here, which also features some of the more grandiose work than that which made it to this particular space. What did make it though are the beautiful layering items that Aptform does so well, in themselves often replete with multiple layers of different fabric, all with multiple kinds of treatments. If you are the kind of person who gets excited by that kind of thing (like me), then you will be in heaven and likewise the construction and seams are a real treat. Aptform tends to avoid hems, relying instead on bonding the edges of the fabric so that they will not fray, and even bonding linings directly to the leather to avoid obvious boundaries and edges. It all leads to a collection that feels very fresh and modern in its clarity and strong silhouette, but by equal turns organic and soft.
With that said, lets have a look around and you have my apologies in advance for my own presence lurking in the background of some these pictures – this was not deliberate!
Needless to say we will be keeping an eye on Aptform this coming fashion week, I have it on good authority that a strong red wool from Aichi prefecture is going to be fairly prominent in the new work and it will be interesting to see if/how this changes the feel of Aptform overall.