I have actually put off writing about Ato Matsumoto’s spring/summer 2013 collection for a while now, it being one that even now I find quite difficult to respond to beyond if it is the obvious continuation of Ato’s sports meets tailoring aesthetic. Perhaps it is the dull metallic filter that the palette seems to have been through? Perhaps it is the mix of sports with smart that is cohesive in places, yet clashing in others? Either way, it is an interesting one and one that I cant decide if it will spark a trend or two or if fans will just consistently buy the monotone pieces and wear the brand as it has always been worn on the streets of Tokyo.
Straight into the show and we find bright blocks of colours, but in the designer’s own words, placed through a masculine filter. Rather than leaving the colours as washed-out pastels, they are given a sportswear sheen which lends them a certain metallic quality. Doubtlessly it is an effect that works best on the tailored or draped pieces leaving the trousers looking a bit too casual for my liking.
The high trainers are surely destined to appear in black and white, but we were denied them on the catwalk leaving us instead with a really interesting design in some very unusual colours.
Ato’s tailored biker gilets were as strong as ever and looked great in the featherlight sports fabrics.
After the colourful opening the show settled into a more muted palette, giving Ato a chance to show off some inventive summer outers paired with very simple trousers.
The sandals definitely looked best with the cropped trousers or the flamboyant shorts on the right.
The outfit on the right shows the visible waist band in the best possible light as far as I am concerned,
but when paired with the denim it struck me as a clash too far.
The show ended with Ato’s formal options which always manage to throw in a couple of surprises befitting of Tokyo’s modern dandys.
It will be interesting to see how this collection is worn and given the fairly comprehensive wardrobe selection there is an awful lot to work with. I know this is going to be out of the menswear comfort zone for many, but it will be up to the men of Tokyo to decide which boundaries they are ready to push. Personally I am always a fan of Ato’s futuristic draped tops and I am glad that I am still catered for even as the designer gets ever more experimental.