In contrast to the rich saturated colours we saw at runurunu’s half of the Dinner group’s Cocoon 6 exhibition, designer Hachi’s Balmung was on a journey through the driest of sand. It was a collection packed with beiges highlighted by flashes of gold inspired by visions of windswept craggy desert scenes or else matte black with shiny points influenced by the contrasting textures of crows. His vast structural shapes remain as strong as ever with designs that envelop the wearer in the warmth of a duvet, but elsewhere the same shapes are created with mesh and layers of sheer fabrics appropriate for the Japanese summer. This collection is almost certainly Balmung’s strongest development of his abstract futurist aesthetic and with every piece you can see further progression in Hachi’s exploration of alien landscapes, futuristic uniforms straight out of Dune or else references to 60s Japanese science fiction illustrations.
In terms of silhouette, the broad weight of the the top remains the same, making the wearer into some kind of walking mountain (especially with his new line of tumid bags), but this time Hachi has also developed the bottom half of the body away from his usual slim drop-crotch and towards triangular flared shorts with broad panelling that resembles a skirt. It is a bold defining move for Hachi and sees him move closer to defining his unique genderless aesthetic.
The theme is “Sand” and you can really feel the dryness of space, of cracked arid rocks and of swathes of metal as you look through the individual pieces.
This might be a little bit warm for the summer, but Hachi is far too busy creating to worry about that. This piece was fantastically warm, satisfyingly padded and the prints really well integrated into the flow of the jacket when worn.
This piece features a silky sheer layer over the cracked leather finish around the collar that appears like clouds over rock formations.
The bags are designed as extensions of the outers and really demand to be worn as a set.
Elsewhere smaller clutches could probably fit into any outfit with ease.
Outside the signature pieces there were more than enough thick drapes and t-shirts for those unwilling to walk the streets of Tokyo as a member of Balmung’s futuristic crew.
On to the details: