bodysong is gearing their futuristic Tokyo tribe for revolution this season drawing from the city’s history of militants, beatniks and student protesters, and channeling them through their own distinctive futuristic lens into an abstract snapshot of insignia, digital camouflage and increasingly aggressive silhouettes. The materials are on the rise too, with the same faux-layered rounded shoulders of previous collections that would have been made in jersey now rendered in Gore-Tex and crisp translucent artificial textiles, all the while giving bodysong the chance to experiment with taped seams and new methods of textile printing. There is also a greater use of conventional fashion staples over the amorphous layers we are used to that at one feels like a departure from previous collections that rebelled by opting out of the traditional fashion lexicon entirely, but at the same time I can’t help but feel like bodysong has developed its identity to the point where it can play with more mainstream tropes without losing its uniqueness – they may be making tailored shirts now, but rest assured, every last stitch still screams bodysong.
As ever bodysong has a couple of interesting collaborations from the Tokyo underground, most notably a jacquard produced by UCNV, who experimented along with glitch fashion pioneer Nukeme to produce a textile from glitched computer data. The endlessly corrupted fabric is a joy to see cut into sharper shapes then you might have previously expected from bodysong, and along with other glitched embroidery by Nukeme builds to a strong sense that this is a uniform for the digital generation.
We start our look at at this collection on the very streets of Harajuku, incidentally where you are most likely to see bodysong worn on a daily basis. As you can see the lighter fabrics have taken a bit of weight out of the whole, but the strong silhouette still holds, especially with the crisp nylon collars that you can see below:
Here you can see the brilliant translucent polyester that bodysong has been experimenting with which contrasts beautifully with the heavier jacquard tape that gives the zip some structure.
The new glitched textiles extend throughout the collection right to the hats (as above), but classic bodysong touches like printing the entire t-shirts flat so that the print extends right up to the collar are also out in full force.
A different sense of techno glitching is brought to the table by knitwear technician an/eddy – this collection just reads like a whose who of modern Japanese fashion craftsmen, and it is great to see them all in one place.
Another name to watch out for is “MAN”, usually known for plush objets, but now contributing a corrupted sailor schoolgirl’s collar and some clutches to the bodysong line-up.
I love how tops like this read like a students activists tumblr, a mess of ideas and imagery in a new beatnik jam.
The new use of more conventional items in the mix is all the more subversive (aka, the Undercover factor), and here the balance feels just right.
The patches that you see on the laces are made in Pakistan by the same factory who makes them for the British armed forces and related regiments. The idea of that same factory making insignia for a new generation of counter-culture Tokyo-ites is rather intoxicating don’t you think?
The jacket above is a mix of Gore Tex and Windstopper technology that gives the bodysong silhouette a technical edge.
Moving on to the showroom:
Here you can see the complete UCNV fabric line-up, personally I loved the crop-jacket in the top right, especially as the cut allows for the reverse of the jacquard to be seen when worn.
More from “MAN”, and this is a bag of bags, the outer bag being an airbag (Honda I believe) and the inner ones detachable as required. An art piece perhaps, but I bet you see this on a street snap site later this year.
Lest we forget in the giddiness of anarchy that bodysong knows how to cut patterns with the best of them, something all the more remarkable when you consider how well they conceive their patterns – the lines on the vest above are really something special.
The glitch fabric extends beyond clothes to interior object such as the stool above created in collaboration with Kagari Yusuke and made out of antenna parts – almost as if the antenna is producing the distorted signal.
More details from “MAN”s clutches.
And a shot from the floor of the atelier turns up on these leather clutches by bodysong and Minami.
As you can tell there are a surprising amount of collaborations in the bodysong world (by the way the patches above are by MOZZZ and the necklace is by High-Me, and I might have even forgotten some…), but that is just how this gang of pioneers work, and given the cohesive collective output, they have certainly found a way to make that approach work, and most importantly of all – the fashion is all the richer for it. After all, what it is that this aggregation of individual modern craftspeople, all pushing back boundaries in their respective and unbelievably specialised fields, need is a mouthpiece, and luckily for Japanese fashion, bodysong is it.