Hot on the proverbial heels of our look at the Christian Dada exhibition at Fake Tokyo, we thought we would bring you a look at what his next season is actually going to look like when it is on the backs of Shibuya club kids it is fated to be worn by. For those who have only seen his enormously popular catwalk show, the extreme disparity between the catwalk and exhibition was best described by the designer Zoo Morikawa in the Fake Tokyo showroom who simply remarked that the former was art and the latter business. He went on to say that an all female line-up just happened to fit the theme of the show and that it hadn’t been a conscious move to reposition the brand infront of the great and good of Tokyo and that next season he might well do an all male runway show and focus on the retail for the women’s line instead.
Fair enough, and that is the kind of flexibility you have when you are young, talented and also happen to have the most eagerly awaited show of all Tokyo fashion week. Well, we will have to see how this kind of approach bears out in the long run, but maybe he might find the need of a steely guiding hand in the same way as Gareth Pugh needed a little commercial touch from Michele Lamy. For now it is clear that he is making what he enjoys and it was great to see him really capitalise on his background in Sukajyan embroidery and artful punk deconstruction.
The theme of his runway show of bones and structure find plenty of opputunities to turn up in the collection proper, from crucifixes to literal bone patterns, it felt like a thoughtful interpretation of the popular imagery that turns up all over Tumblr and Witch House videos.
But he is never far away from the kind of punk aesthetic that he picked up living in London – maybe that is why he is clearly such an internationally palatable designer?
Compared to his catwalk collection, this is almost too ready for consumption – a perfect match for the season and the city.
So what can we expect from Christian Dada next? Certainly a move to expand on his women’s line seems inevitable as I believe there were actually only two women’s items for mass production at the exhibition and it would have been nice if he had been able to find a way to tone down his artistic vision from the shows into wearable items. Either way, he is one designer who has definitely earned the right to do whatever he likes and all we can do is enjoy the ride.