Just when you thought Japanese men’s streetwear had begun to stagnate now that Phenomenon is spiraling off in an increasingly preppy direction and the majority of the big names are still on the same tired trajectory they were on a decade ago, in comes a guy who might just be able to change that. Detto K is an underground artist who shot to relative internet fame internationally courtesy of him being used as Candy’s (of Fake Tokyo fame in Shibuya) model and in Tokyo as one of the DJs and live performers who defined the recent boom in the fashion club scene. Right back when I first saw him at Candy it was clear that his personal fashion was streets ahead of the streets outside the shop, being one of the few guys to be able to wear catwalk Phenomenon with ease as he was and his own personally remade items completing a truly unique look. Now he is taking that style, which like the man himself is integrally tied to the Tokyo underground music scene, and brining it to a full fashion line for S/S 2013.
The brand’s first ever exhibition was held last Saturday as a chance to showcase the aforementioned collection, but also a series of custom leather jackets remade by Detto K over the last year. Unlike the main collection which is entirely the direction he wants to go in personally his series of leathers is an homage to various underground music genres with 80s glam house as well represented as metal, punk and there was even a pink unicorn that Detto K denied had anything to do with Sea Punk.
Join me for a look around both sides of the exhibition, I promise it will be worth your while:
The first thing that struck me as entirely new with this collection is the use of unpolished latex, I know that brands like Komakino have flirted with the stuff, but seeing a line-up of t-shirts, biker jackets and baggy shorts all in coloured latex was a revelation. It stikes me as a material with great potential at a street level especially once you remove the need to keep it polished that ultimately renders most latex unwearable day to day. Speaking to the designer, Detto K said that he didn’t want it to look like fetish wear, but rather masculine and credible wherever you wear it.
The latex riders are to die for.
Elsewhere mesh finds itself featured prominently.
On to the leather jackets and there is less of a hip hop vibe, but you could imagine these worn to pretty much any Tokyo club night you care to mention.
This was the obvious stand out piece of the show – with good reason!
But personally I would rather have this beauty on my back.
Elsewhere there were a couple of other custom hats and masks that Detto K uses when performing which he is currently trying to simplify to production level.
For more on Detto K you will want to go here and seeing as this is the first ever exhibition I have no stockists for you right now, but I think he will find himself picked up by the usual select shops next season.