I haven’t talked about Diet Butcher Slim Skin here on Tokyo Telephone as of yet and that is quite surprising seeing as they are actually one of the few Japanese street-wear brands to gain an admittedly cult but strong international following. That may be because of their particularly catchy name or accesible hi-tops , but probably because they are one of the most restrained and classy brands that Tokyo has given birth to. The thing is that Tokyo is a positive haven for magpies like me who want everything covered in shiny metal, ripped into and repaired with every inch of an item making some vague point or other. Diet Butcher Slim Skin on the other hand takes the same punk influences that the opposite end of the neo-punk spectrum – Candy’s Christian DaDa to name but one – does but mixes them with pure class. The end result is something that reeks quality, but still makes the same point in a way all the more credible no-matter what the context. Actually I think it is the latter point that has really led Diet Butcher Slim Skin to international acclaim – at the end of the day this is a distillation of cool, it is cool now, will be next season and will be 50 years down the line.
Continue reading to see what designer Hisashi Fukatami has in store for us in his S/S 2011 collection and some of my favorite picks from the current season.
I really like how he has combined elements of skinhead with softer themes to create something really wearable but that can never be separated from the aggression of its origin. The fact that his work is really precise, with a completely flawless finish adds another inherent contradiction to the collection. Whereas the punk inspiration is dirty, disheveled and damaged, Diet Butcher Slim Skin achieves the same shape and silhouette but with an exceptionally crisp quality.
The above S/S collection is not all that big a departure from current season, but I am enjoying the influence of warmer, lighter browns and contrasting slightly oversized shapes with tighter fits.
Back on the season at hand, I am loving his precise punk vision with subtle hints of bondage.
And some of my favorite individual items.
A perfectly masculine draped jacket – perfect.
A re-worked jacket courtesy of the constant collaborator Hiro who brings out the punk in DBSS in a more literal way. Maybe I lack subtlety, but this is right up my alley – I think will save the more reserved stuff for when I am in my 80s or so…
And his stunning trainers that are in demand worldwide. One of the few trainers I would actually wear outside the gym, now that is saying something!
If you are a fan definitely check out the recently updated homepage, where you can see an installation of the designer through the ages as it were. It is gratifying to see the theme of timelessness in the installation echoed through using the same clothes over some 60 years of the designers life, it delves into the issue of being eternally cool and how your relationship with clothes changes over the years – fascinating stuff.
At the very least it is good to know that I can still be rocking the streets well into my 80s, and I am positively looking forward to it.