As you might well expect from a collection entitled “Odds and Ends” the theme of Hisashi Fukatami’s latest collection is focused on found materials and then splicing them together through collage. A theme that you would not think out of place amongst the Ura-Harajuku re-make favorites like Acycle, Hiro, Juvenille Hall Rollcall and the rest of the Root Magazine crowd, but as you would hope for from Diet Butcher Slim Skin they handle this theme with precision and a restraint that just lets the collection ooze class.
You could say that this collection presents a honing of the re-make / re-made movement that we have seen become so mainstream in Japanese street fashion in the last couple of years. Except this time you have an unbelievably perfect rendition of this home-made aesthetic, rather than one that is celebratory of its inherent crudeness. Either way, by isolating this punk aesthetic Diet Butcher Slim Skin have really managed to breath fresh life into their work:
The collection was show as a toned-down exhibition (alongside these terribly cute dolls), and through a concise look-book:
I predict that these divided boots will be a big hit later this year and it must be said that season on season DBSS do always manage to do wonders with their shoes.
Love this sectioned jacket with rough details but precise tailoring.
Patch-worked trousers are always a sure-fire hit with me and it is always a pleasure to see them done so well.
And once again, the boots steal the show, which among all the great elements going on in the above shot is really saying something.
At first glance this seems simple then you clock the two-tone shoes and then that sharp re-structured waistcoat. Yes, the look is understated, but there is a lot going on here.
Nice amount of distressing on the arms here, but to be totally honest, all I want to go on about are those boots…
And finally a flavor of the exhibition:
This collection really feels different from their last, but on reflection in terms of the original pieces it does continue where the last left off. They have always been good with mixing the textures in their overall outfits, and this time they have concentrated more on doing so in single items. Likewise their patchwork has long been DBSS’s way of keeping their line inline with the punk visions of the designer and this collection is a nice exaggeration of that particular element within the work.
I am sure the fanatical fans of of Diet Butcher Slim Skin are going to love this slight shift in direction, and as for me, I will remain infatuated with their footwear…