In a continuation of this menswear kick I have been on recently (last roundup here), I thought I would showcase another collection that has just hit the shops in Tokyo. Now I do have an excuse for not getting this out sooner as Diet Butcher Slim Skin don’t really push their stuff out to the press until it is pretty much imminently available to buy, but compensate instead with a steady stream of special editions, collaborations and mini-collections throughout the year that ensures that they are never too far from magazine coverage. Anyway, the core S/S 2012 collection was recently previewed in Isetan Mens in Shinjuku, with an official lookbook to boot, so I guess now is as good a time as any to go into it here.
Designer Hisashi Fukatami’s latest is entitled “Night Stroller” and is a pleasantly romanticized look into starry summer nights, building in contrasting elements to reflect the night sky as well as gradients to allude to the rising/setting sun. There are plenty of star shapes (done mercifully well!), and the usual street fashion elements that you should now have come to expect from BDSS, but that is not to say that there aren’t enough touches to keep this current. DBSS may not have moved on from the skinny legged silhouette, but on the other hand elsewhere the look is far more relaxed and unstructured then the menswear that has long dominated Japanese fashion.
The introduction of more tailoring into the collection, when combined with the much darker palette than usual for the summer season, makes the work a little more adult and certainly feels less “punk” then previous collections. On the other hand the re-introduction of shiny metallic fabrics harks back to the glamour of the late 2000s and keeps the work young enough for the dandys of Tokyo who are likely to scoop this up.
Metallic shirts and “foreign lady” prints – this is almost a nostalgia trip.
But on the other-hand , both of these are a testament to how a modern collection can bridge the gap between smart and street – which is at the core of Japanese menswear right now.
Footwear is usually DBSS strong point, and while I like the new trainers, they don’t quite seem as strong as previous designs.
Thoughts? If you are undecided then head over to the official homepage where there are a number of short (and I mean short) films of the collection in motion. As for me, I am all for darker collections for S/S, but I tend to prefer a stronger shoulder if possible. Regardless, I am pretty sure there are loads of you out there eyeing up certain items already, which is fortunate, as I said before – this is literally just about to go on sale.