Today is a good day, readers. The sun is shining, the cherry blossom is finally blooming, and I’m writing about one of my favourite collections from fashion Week: DressedUndressed.
Titled Homunculus and taking inspiration from American Psycho, this was one of the undeniable highlights of Tokyo Fashion Week and a fantastic first catwalk show for DressedUndressed. Samuel and I have talked about DressedUndressed a few times previously, and I think that one of the first statements I made about this brand was that they make the kind of clothes that I want to wear when I grow up, and I still stand by that – except that two years on, what I’m wearing now borrows heavily from DressedUndressed’s style. My clothes may have grown up a bit, but I’m not sure that I have.
Mental vs physical age crises aside now, and back to DressedUndressed: we were treated to a huge video wall that framed the opposite side of the catwalk, and following the main show a short film was displayed, showing one of the male models lounging around in a stark room and wearing the leather gloves and harnesses seen on the catwalk, causing many of the attendees to shift around in their seats, perfectly completing the powerfully uncomfortable tone set by the main show. Long coats and gloves, white shirts and leather harnesses, high-waisted trousers and strikingly cut jackets – I know I’m in love. The wait until this collection hits retail will be a difficult one.
This was a collection that was almost fetishistic in its severity, no reprieve from the blackest black and the whitest white. The American Psycho influences are a particular point that I find really interesting: in the novel itself, Patrick and colleagues compete with each other in the most shallow ways – business cards, glasses and clothing become a visual currency and means of direct comparison. The obsession with labels and price is something often found in fashion, and if I had the time and inclination (and perhaps a more anonymous medium) I’d make a comment on the rise of bloggers and popularity of high-end designer fashion – another subject for another day.
In the interview after the show, designer Takeshi Kitazawa (along with the female half of DressedUndressed, Emiko Sato, who remained silent, a dynamic that matches Tokyo Telephone in public), mentioned that he identifies with the homunculus of the title: by making and wearing these clothes he wishes to transform himself into someone and something more. The transformative power of clothing is explored in many ways in Japanese society and fashion, from cosplay to subcultures, and it’s something I can really relate to, and would love to see explored further in the future.
I’m really looking forward to getting my hands on more than a few items, but I’m sure I’ll have to wait in line as the rest of Tokyo seems to have fallen under the DressedUndressed spell as well…