Perhaps the most important collection from last Tokyo Fashion Week is moments away from retail, a fact celebrated by DressedUndressed holding a launch party and limited shop in Abydos Harajuku. Before we launch into that I would advise you to familiarize yourself with how it looked on the catwalk here, mainly because hangers don’t really sell the vision, which in this case comes down to a study in painstaking tailoring, an art that seems to be less and less appreciated these days. The fact that this collection has no obvious gimmicks is in itself something of a rarity in Japanese fashion given that the media celebrated face of street fashion is rather difficult to take seriously unless you are numbed to it on a daily basis and lest we forget that the official representative of the week was none other than Yuima Nakazato.
Indeed, it strikes me that the design duo behind DressedUndressed would be better off in Europe or even America than Japan these days, a fact reinforced by their contemporaries at Dummyhead Depaysemen being picked up by a high profile boutique abroad only recently. From there the logical question occurs – why aren’t more people dressing like this in Tokyo? Is it a dated look to the youth who grew up with their parent’s generation worshipping the black crows created by Yohij Yamamoto? Is it quite simply too serious for a street style generation raised on the mantra that fashion is fun? Or is it thanks to the media rewarding Kyary and her ilk endlessly on TV?
I obviously have opinions on all the above, but I dare say I am a little biased. Regardless of that I have definitely been struck of late by the surge in darker domestic brands and shops that stock them. More and more mainstream places are keeping Julius and the market for niche brands popular abroad like Incarnation and Carol Christian Poell is moving faster than official stockists can keep up with to the point where you can shop a surprising amount new in used brand shops destroying the exclusivity agreements such brands have with shops like Lift over in Daikanyama. Tokyo is starting to pull its own way, and it is high time that the media and shops caught up.
With that said, be thankful for Abydos for having the foresight to have supported DressedUndressed right from the start:
The space was left open, allowing you to try on clothes, walk around and get a sense of the movement fundamental to DressedUndressed.
The collection was split distinctly into wool, silk and various blends for the tailored clothes and leather for shoes and accessories. Personally I can’t wait to see more leather clothes from them, but I will have to be patient.
The future is definitely looking black for me, I just hope that Tokyo agrees.