After many consecutive seasons of unisex collections Dummyhead Depaysemen surprised us all with a completely masculine collection in silhouette and structure, the feminine elements only returning for the details giving the collection a pleasantly fetishistic juxtaposition which you should have come to expect from this brand by now. Most prominent of all is the heavy use of lace, something which in fashion history is no stranger, dating back to the fops and dandys and court life before that, but to sling it in a collection next to straps, harnesses and leather t-shirts and it becomes outright kinky. Don’t get me wrong, as you are about to see the overall look is credible and restrained, but there is a subversive note that sings out through the collection throughout – and no bad thing either.
Dummyhead Depaysemen is yet to have a fashion show so you will have to make do with the lookbook for now:
Even at its most basic you have little nods to underground culture thanks to those layered restraint cuffs on the wrists.
The tie is replaced with a body harness in a nice nod to kink culture.
The lace idea starts with these smoky fibres woven into an otherwise sharp shirt.
Love this belt meets garter set-up.
Breaking away from the tailoring and we are into the leather, lots of rumpled leather.
This t-shirt is best worn layered to give you the rounded shoulder silhouette that defines Tokyo menswear right now, and is actually made from heavily coated cotton.
The t-shirt above is panelled to included sheer segments next to the thick coated cotton to really play up to the anima / animus juxtaposition.
On to the lace, the shorts have a front panel you can unzip to reveal a second layer of lace as well.
Love the little o-ring details on the belt.
The curvaceous forms established on the tops comes back in this leather chest plate.
You are really spoiled on the outers this season, this raw shearling gets my vote.
This coat is SS&M in a nutshell.
And finally the showpiece coat from the collection – fabulous.
On to the showroom:
Stand by for more from Dummyhead Depaysemen in the near future and I really do hope that you like what you have seen here today.