Seeing Fur fur’s show at La Foret Harajuku is always a bit of a treat, and this untitled collection was no exception. After lining up on the stairs for what seemed like an age (most of Fashion Week is spend waiting for the fashion rather than looking at nice things), we were ushered into a dimly lit room, overpowered by incense and the twinkly sound of improvised music from a collection of international musicians. Once the smoke had cleared a bit, we suddenly realised that there were models standing around the outside of the room on a wooden catwalk – I don’t think I was the only person caught off-guard by this!

This season Fur fur, while remaining untitled, produced a collection that was a step away from the previously cute look that is so popular with fans of the brand. Inspired by the 1920s, this was a more mature Fur fur, with the trademark excesses of lace and fabric only seen as part of a select few outfits, rather than defining the collection as a whole. Models wore wide sailor-style collars and simple jackets, rolled-up wide leg denim trousers, and simple coats. While collar was definitely king (or queen?) of this show, I was particularly taken with the flapper-girl drop-waists, emphasised by wide ribbons. This was a departure from Fur fur’s earlier overtly feminine styles, and added a much more powerful element to the show.

I love all the details: extra layers, pin-tucks and buttoned cuffs.

Who would have thought that denim could look this chic and fresh?

Detail from one of the more opulent styles. The models walked up and down through flour strewn on the wooden catwalks.

Almost something kimono-esque about the shapes here, and a perfectly complimentary 20s hairstyle too.

Lovely tiny shoes!

I really like this shade of dark mustard, and the drop-waist belted look should be pretty easy to replicate.

Side-shot. Amazing. A little like Comme des Garcons in the way the body is manipulated by the clothing…

Menswear tweed gets a new lease of life – really striking when paired with the red t-bar shoes.

A view to remember.

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