The idea of uchi-soto should be familiar to most readers of this site, and while it is a useful starting point for understanding some cultural constructs it has become woefully lacking when deconstructing current issues in Japanese fashion, especially the issue of introvertism vs extrovertism that defines the generational gap between the current generation and previous. Hatra is one brand who tackles this social phenomenon brilliantly by taking clothes inspired by the introverted hikkikomori, the otaku room and so on, and places them in the extroverted world of Tokyo street fashion. The highlight of the current collection is a subverted Supreme logo sweater where the logo has been distorted by the glitch fashion master Nukeme, as if to parody the uniformal protection offered by the hype scene, or else to show the wearer as pretender in the Tokyo street fashion world.
You will see more of that later in the showroom, but first lets enjoy the lookbook, which is brilliant as ever in tone and model choice – Moga Mogami from Dempagumi.Inc.
The key concept for the brand is to make a safe space for you to head out into the world in, in effect bringing the room with you wherever you go, the high neck hood allowing you to shut yourself away at any moment. The lookbook suggests that anything outside the clothes is unshielded and fades to nothing, highlighting that everything outside your personal portable space is a threat to the self in Japanese society. I suppose the great irony of this is that, while doing so you are making a bold fashion statement in the process and no matter how deliberately muted Hatra makes his hooded tops, that the mecha-inspired shapes are very noticeable. Perhaps in a Tokyo where itasha can purr down the streets unnoticed, the idea of locking your personal preferences and personality away is actually more striking a statement of identity.
The clothes themselves are constructed to clinical standards, with each pattern an exercise in precision and the fabrics themselves Japanese-made technical textiles including KANTIAN a specially developed textile from Kaytay textiles in Fukui – a new one for me.
The shapes are pleasantly futurist with a hint of anime robotic armoring in the seams and of course the allusion to an astronaut’s space suit through the large hood.
The subtly revamped Hatra hoody has been given a glitch treatment with Nukeme under the collaborative Hatreme label.
This hood allows you to shut yourself away entirely if it all gets too much.
The line also extends to shirts, cardigans and trousers, the latter being absent from this lookbook which is a crying shame because they are fantastic.
On to the showroom:
Love the folded elbow detail on this jacket.
Below you can see the Hatreme top in better detail:
Every season Hatra also works with an artist for the t-shirts for the line, which you can get a taste of below: