Now that we are in the heart of the exhibition and showroom season that follows Tokyo Fashion Week, we are starting to see how the underground and outsider fashion for this A/W 2012 is shaping up. It is always difficult to say which period truly defines Japanese fashion best, as the Fashion Week itself may fill the magazine and newspaper coverage, but it is the brands that generally just have an exhibition that define the streets. Saying that, when we were chatting to the designer of Hiro, who is our subject today, he said that he is seriously considering a show next time – but is Tokyo ready?
Hiro’s A/W collection is packed with the same sort of dark imagery we have come to expect from the man by now, this time his muse was A Daisy Chain for Satan by Thrill Kill Kult, drug films, gore films and camp horror. The latter element provided a little bit of a comic touch which toned it down (a little), but overall it was a perfect nostalgia trip back to counter culture that seemed to edgy when I was a little boy dressed in black. The same Hiro over-sized and genderless silhouette that has been such a big hit on the streets of Harajuku and Shibuya was back again, and packed with hand detailing that the designer himself still does on some of the showpieces – including the one below:
This jacket was made in the same factory where some of the Disneyland Tokyo plush toys are made in Japan – a nice touch and the kind of detail that you only get when a designer is as passionate about the cultural place of his clothes as Hiro.
Elsewhere there were some nice nods to re-using fabrics from fishermen’s knits and sacking material, and the leather is mostly horse – which Hiro always has a preference for.
His key print for this season is re-worked imagery from American money which is spliced together into a mix of gothic, drug and masonic imagery.
The details like the buttons and contrasting threaded elements are always worth the cost of admission with this brand. Elements may look worn, but trust me there is a standard to finish here that shames many brands.
Some fun camp horror references that fit the bad taste theme perfectly.
Spliced together knits with geometric precision.
The bomber jackets with leather elements were absolutely beyond cool and unbelievably heavy. The sleeves on this (and a couple of other pieces) are all produced as part of the Common Sleeve project which means that the sleeves can get taken off and exchanged with any other Common Sleeve item.
You really can’t go wrong with an over-sized T-Shirt with a great hand-printed print.
I just loved this perfectly executed Rocky Horror sweater with detachable arms – amazing! If you look to the right of it you might spot Juvenile Hall Rollcall’s latest collection – don’t worry we will have that for you very soon.
Looking out onto Harajuku’s Cat Street, where this collection will soon be worn – can’t wait.