Continuing on from our coverage of Juvenile Hall Rollcall’s military regime themed collection we find the other side of the Honey’s Dead partnership focusing on the other side of the equation – the oppressed. It must be said before we begin that there are certain topics that I can’t help but feel are off limits to fashion, and at first glance a collection themed around Anne Frank would almost certainly fall into that category, but delve a little deeper and you will find this is more than shock tactics and is trying to say something of value. The designer is a keen skater and has grown up around re-appropriated iron crosses, eagles and Stars of David, which have always been a staple of skate and street art culture. In this collection those ideas come back to roost and are acknowledged for the bad taste that they are and will always be, no matter how diluted that original meaning may become.
It is clearly an important reference for the designer who grew up in Tokyo skater culture to acknowledge these references, and can surely only ever come from someone who lives in the Tokyo underground such as Hiro. Whether you could wear this abroad or not is something I will leave you to decide, but it will be interesting to see how this turns up on the streets of Harajuku in time. Discounting the wearer, at least at inception it is certainly immune from ignorance and from talking to Hiro I can assure you that his intentions are good and meaning positive, even if there are some nods to bad taste culture at times.
Aside from the theme Hiro is chanelling the late 80s and early 90s in both styling and early 90s Shibuya skate culture fit.
The prints are probably the most difficult aspect of the collection to deal with from my perspective, so quite the reverse of 90 percent of Japanese brands we talk about on this site.
In this coat you can start to see some of the skater references given a darker twist.
Even though this collection may lack the ridiculously heavy fabrics that Hiro likes to use, there are some nice showpieces like the hand embroidered rotting apple above.
There are a couple of Common Sleeve items in the collection as ever – including the great coat above.
Needless to say, the look is totally unisex and open to interpretation.
I would be interested to know what people think of this one, and if you want a closer look we will have showroom coverage for you very soon.