HNBM is one of those brands that pops up effortlessly in street snaps and on the shelves of the usual cool Harajuku street stockists, apparently the name stands for Has No Boundaries of Manifest which I can just about relate to the brand identity, although I can’t help but notice that boundaries do in fact play a huge part in the look.  However, I am the last man on the planet to get hung up on names, especially when Japanese brands are concerned, and will instead get on to the clothes themselves –

The look is effortlessly subversive and is a perfect match for the no-mans land that connects Shibuya, Harajuku and Daikanyama – away from the extremes of subculture and in the realms of adult and thoughtful fashion

Read on for the looks of this winter and why this is a brand that deserves a closer look.

Personally I am a huge fan of the blacksmith’s apron-like studded pieces worn to the front, although I am yet to have any luck in actually finding one in stock anywhere.  No surprise given that they are still a relatively cult brand only founded in 2006,  and while they are stocked in a good number of places they tend to only keep a couple of pieces.  Apparently the trick is to keep an eye on their homepage and see when new stock is going to be dispatched – a bit of a pain, but hopefully things will change as I can’t help but feel with this brand they are going the right way to having their own flagship shop before too long.

What might not stand out from the lookbook pictures above is the fabric used for the clothes, the designer Hisashi Hoshino is quite vocal about always striving for new materials for his work and up close I can vouch that even with his somewhat basic designs, alongside nice touches in construction, you notice that there is just something different about the fabrics – they either just lie or feel that bit different.  So while you may not find the showmanship that someone like Julius brings to design classics you will at the very least find something that manages to be different from the norm.

Price-wise this sits in OIOI territory.  Expect to pay 20000-25000 for denim and 30000-60000 on outers.  Appropriate enough I would say for the cutting edge fabrics and you can pretty deftly fit any of the pieces into all but the most specific of wardrobes.

I am personally looking forward to seeing more of this brand now that it is well and truly on my radar.  I like the approach to contrasting depths of black which if done as has been done in the shots above can be a really strong look in its own right, but it is the studs, distressed drapes and the even skirt-like layers that make it subversive rather than pedestrian.  It is this latter point that I can really relate to, personally I find myself walking the tight-rope between wanting to be taken seriously in most contexts and wanting to make a point.  As a man interested in fashion it is all too easy to make yourself the object of ridicule, particularly by other men, by making your fashion such that it needs a specific context to be credible.  Not that I have a problem with fashion like V-kei in the slightest, it just demands the right situation to work.  Brands like HNBM reflect an alternative to be incredibly fashion forward, but still adult and masculine, even while playing with elements of androgyny – no mean feat.  Anyway, I can’t help but feel that that is another topic for another time, ultimately it is a credit to HNBM that it inspires that kind of reflection on your own style.

And in case you were wondering about the model, that is Yukiro who regularly turns up on on La Carmina’s wonderful site.

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3 Responses to HNBM – Mass_Armament*

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  2. Lisa says:

    Ooooooh, I love draping! ^^
    I’d totally pick some of that stuff out for myself, gorgeous cuts!
    Will have to drop by the store next time in TKY to check out the fabric up close. ^^

  3. Tokyo Telephone says:

    Definitely worth checking out, you won’t be disappointed, for the record R and I regularly share drapes – ah, the joys of unisex.

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