Catorce, the Aoyama flagship that houses the two brands Catorce and 14th Addiction has been something of a closed book for some time now, its not the kind of place you just trip over on your fashion travels even though it is not all that far from the other Aoyama fashion institutions. But that fits with the ethos of the shop, itself looking like a nomadic encampment, an interior hand -rafted/destroyed by the designer of 14th Addiction – Teruki, and the fashion itself a testament to his own travels and outsider lifestyle.
I have written about 14th Addiction a very long time ago, and to be honest since then the overall vibe of the brand hasn’t changed all that much, techniques have been refined, materials changed, but this is still the “back to the land” apocalyptia that was cool yesterday, is cool today and will be cool tomorrow. It is also one of my favorite brands in Japanese fashion, filling my wardrobe with indestructible leathers that have taken on a life of their own with wear, my own contributions hopefully adding to the story in time.
I will also take this opportunity to point out that one of the most remarkable things about the 14th Addiction and Catorce world is that they are very keen to avoid appropriating any of the tribal influences in their work. For example the beading, rug textiles and so on in the work is produced authentically by the tribe in question, indeed the brand a number of groups in this way, ensuring that the beautiful arts are not lost this generation or the next.
First I thought we would take a look at the 14th Addiction specific parts of the shop, here you can see their classic dismantled nomadic aesthetic and don’t miss the great crocodile belly collar on the far right.
The shoes are great, providing you with more engineer, army and evolved moccasins then any man could ask for.
My favorite thing about the line-up is the all original hardware, mostly made in brass and packed with great details.
Next up we have the women’s line – Catorce, which is appropriately enough designed by Teruki’s wife.
For Catorce the look is simpler, with very fitted drapes taking the lead next to voluminous but very light outers.
These killer boots are produced every season and lovingly hacked together.
On to the jewelry line which has gone under a different name in the past, maybe some of you will know it as Wild Heart?
The accessory line is mostly carved from deer antler or very high quality, take it from someone who collects netsuke, both in carving a quality of antler, these are great.
Check out the detail on this beauty!