Seeing as I have just seen Isamu Katayama’s S/S 2013 “Sadhual” collection I though I had better rush out this one lest we miss out on it. Last time we saw Isamu Katayama he was modeling for Roar’s S/S 2012 10 year anniversary lookbook alongside his Daikanyama friends, which was a position I always saw him in in the Japanese fashion scene. He is a designer who, while being on artisanal and high-end of the market, was synonymous with Japanese street fashion in all it’s ragged studs, straps and excess. I used to see his work on racks next to Roen, the aforementioned Roar and the Swarovski saturated Francist Morks. However, in the last couple of years he has distanced himself further and further from the trend and fashion focused pack, leaving that to his protegee Incarnation, and simply does what he loves. Don’t worry: his artisanal exotic leather and all out obscene items are still on sale in the VIP area of Royal Flash Harajuku the last time I checked, but he seems to be favoring a heritage, simplified and very internationally friendly mainline these days.
Appropriately enough he showed his subdued A/W 2012 in Paris with a simple installation where his small gang of models shared a joke and a drink for a couple of minutes while photographers snapped away. It was not necessarily anything new from Backlash in terms of designs, rather it was a matter of his old designs being simplified, robbed of crocodile embellishments and excessive details, but given a touch of heritage / vintage late 60s and 70s flair in their place. The fantastic leathers that he made his name with are all present and correct, with the usual mix of Guidi, German calf and Italian buffalo. New to this collection are double layered shoulders taken from Belgian military designs and a couple more designs than normal featuring English bridal leather. In short, if you like leather you are in the right place and there are a wealth of classic designers to choose from, although as you are about to see in the presentation itself Isamu Katayama chose to remind us of the wool options he also offers.
In terms of styling, the wide leg trousers, equestrian trousers, leg warmers and cropped leather trousers should give you plenty of room to experiment and leave the top half of the body to exhibit your jacket.
For international stockists and more information you will want to go here, and if you are in Tokyo a visit to the flagship is a must – very cool indeed.