We may have only looked at Isamu Katayama’s Backlash A/W 2012-13 collection relatively recently (here if you missed it), but now is the turn of his S/S 2013 which was presented in his typically understated manner on the first of July earlier this month. Instead of putting on a runway show Isamu Katayama favors a simple presentation where his models simply stand as the audience enjoys a drink and gives him a chance to explain the leather treatments and little evolutions of his classic biker style. It is worth noting that he tends to use these shows as an opportunity to show what he is going to be doing differently each season rather than the entire line-up, after-all, the vast majority of Backlash’s output remains largely unchanged each season with many of the classic engineer boots and perfecto leather jackets having been perfected many years ago.
This season Isamu Katayama continued his on-going travel theme with a visit to Varanasi in India where he was inspired by the Sadhus (Hindu wandering monks), known for their burnt orange garb and dust daubed faces. Combining that with his own concept of leather as being part of human rituals Isamu Katayama dubbed his collection Sadhual (Sadhus + Ritual). This is translated in his work using dusty finishes to his leathers and wool or else key details are treated with Logwood Sap and rust to give them a distinctly burnt orange hue in reference to the aforementioned monks.
This concept integrate easily in his aesthetic which is rapidly becoming more relaxed and bohemian as the man himself ages. Indeed, he chose to style the show with laid-back sandals and flowing silk mixes to break up the leather – a world apart from the heritage biker that he rose to prominence with, but none the less, an obvious continuation of his overall style.
The relaxed wide-leg trousers with classic leather jacket has a timeless cool that any man of any age should be able to get away with. The dust finish on the left is slightly more experimental, but likewise has a cool restraint to it.
On the left you can see his rusty orange treatment in the collar of the blazer.
Overall the collection had a certain aged dignity to it, something which should resonate with his aging fans and international fans for whom his heavily embroidered heritage biker jackets are probably a step too far.