Tokyo streetwear masters Jackrose and Luv Maison return to form with a simple clean take on the rock / biker aesthetic that we know and love.  For a 109 Mens brand they are showing remarkable restraint this season with very little of the fussy detail that was all over their S/S.  Perhaps they are reflecting the austerity of the times, and with real leather jackets that come in at the best part of 20000 yen they are certainly pitching the brand at those who appreciate “Real Clothes” but can’t quite make the stretch.  Whatever their reasons, I am always a fan of Jackrose season on season because they seem to understand that the vast majority of men’s fashion centers around key basics – the principle that a good fitted leather jacket, jeans and a pair of stout boots is pretty much all you need to build a cool look around, anything else is a bonus.

To guide you through the collection I thought I would look at the three sides that make up the brand (not unlike Buffalo Bobs): the core American Biker inspired line, Luv Maison which is slightly more European fashion focused and their basics.  So lets kick off with Jackrose proper:

And as always they have brought in Worst and Crows writer Hiroshi Takahashi to illustrate a character wearing the core Jackrose look:

You have to try quite hard to go wrong with this look, as you can see from the line-up of Jackrose soldiers that are always out in force on the streets of Shibuya.

Mixed in with the Jackrose core line is the “Vintage” line that does premium jackets, often in the same designs but with better quality leather and hardware.  That way you can still have fundamentally the same look, in real leather that will last, but at a fraction of the cost – nice one Jackrose!

Told you you can’t go wrong with it.  As for individual items, for me it is all about their ivory coloured jackets:

And I always have time for a nice pair of boots (if you missed it, check out this article on classic boots).

Good stuff all round, but where they are really shining this year is the Luv Maison line which is their more fashion forward line (think Buffalo Bobs Noir).

Always glad to see UK rock influencing Japanese fashion, and this year Ace Cafe is working with Jackrose to produce a couple of items, not to mention that the Rolling Stones are continuing their mini-collection with the brand.  Ah, a rare chance to be proud of my English heritage!

Awesome lining on the right!

And the actual Luv Maison solo collection:

Hints of Julius on the left, but in a really accesible way.  Talking of accesible, there is always their basic items that can easily form the basis of any man’s wardrobe:

Nice classy stuff by anyone’s standards, and as you can see striking a nice balance between quality and price.

Well there you go, a classy and affordable collection, with not too much excess detail, but you could always bring out the biker edge with your own accessories.  As for me, I always think of Jackrose as a great place for quality basics and I am pretty sure I will always have time to pay a visit to their bastion of classic cool in Harajuku.

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10 Responses to Jackrose Luv Maison A/W 2011-12 Rock Mind

  1. brad-t says:

    I really wish Jackrose would make real leather versions of their PU shoes. So killer, but I’m not wasting money on any synthetic leather, period.

  2. Samuel says:

    @ brad-t

    Totally, and you want to know something really annoying? They used to back in the pre 109-2 days and at virtually the same price as the PU ones now!

    As for the whole PU debate, I actually get a pair of PU shoes for the rainy season in Japan each year. Rain obviously just runs off them and you can keep your beautiful leather ones in perfect condition – win!

    I should also say that I have had a pair of Sabgreed PU boots that are all kinds of awesome and after about a years worth of wear are showing literally no signs of wear except for a tiny amount of scuffing on the toe (which would happen on any shoe). But for the sake of balance I also got a pair of draped finish shoes from Sabgreed and they split on the leather wrinkling area within a month or two.

    But I am with you on this issue, if you are paying more than 10000 yen for a pair of shoes they should be leather. Otherwise that is money down the drain. On the other hand anything over 100000 yen for a pair of shoes is equally wasteful as all shoes crumble over time. I was in Rick Owens the other day and I would love a pair of high-sneakers but I just know they wouldn’t last 🙁

    S

  3. adrian says:

    just perfect …………….coollll

  4. brad-t says:

    Re: high tops, it’s amazing to me that more people aren’t making shoes in similar styles (without aping the aesthetic entirely). Maybe a pair of DBSS?

    RO x Chrome Hearts are still delicious but they’re selling for like $1k in terrible condition, so screw that.

    As for PU shoes, I dunno. I’ve heard people try to justify the use of PU as being good for Japanese streets or rain or whatever, but you can just waterproof and topy leather shoes and they will last much longer and feel much better. I may as well buy shoes at Aldo or something at that price.

    And while I’m bitching about boots, FUGA really needs to offer a Size 27-28 in their shoes 🙁 Offering just two sizes is obscene.

  5. Samuel says:

    @ brad-t

    I quite like the Moonage Devilment pair of high tops you posted a while back. I just want them to go quite high on the leg with an industrial vibe. I tried on a pair of the new season Julius ones (the ones covered in straps), but they didn’t go as high on the leg as a pair of RO. Oh well, Civarise do an inspiration pair that might do in the meantime.

    I will say that “disposable shoes” are a good idea for Tokyo as you can chomp through them quite easily. But if you take care of your boots and have them resoled as often as you need to then it is not so much of an issue really.

    I will join you in bitching about Fuga ( for a different reason). Because they get their boots from different suppliers, you never really know how their sizing is going to go – I would say you would always have to try on their boots before you buy. Their sizing is a bit weird all round as it happens, they once did some jeans that were only in 42 – good for me, but they have pretty much eliminated anyone with an actual waist!

    S

  6. brad-t says:

    I won’t take a risk on those awesome engineer boots with snakeskin, then 🙁

  7. Samuel says:

    Yeah, I wouldn’t if I were you. Unless you go large and accept that you will use an insole to get the perfect fit. Then again there was a pair in the smallest size that I could not even get my foot in and another that claimed to be the same size but were ok.

    In conclusion, don’t risk it unless they are comically cheap.

  8. brad-t says:

    Well I would take the largest size. Normally I wear 27-28.

  9. Samuel says:

    Yeah… Don’t risk it. You need to get yourself over to Japan man! Probably cheaper than a shopping service.

  10. brad-t says:

    Yeah I was thinking that the other day haha.

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