One of the biggest problems facing Japanese fashion today is how to provide sufficient oxygen for the huge number of brands that could (and arguably should) receive attention by both industry and media. The industry is keener to hire designers in to already successful brands and bludgeon an otherwise individual designer to, say, only designing the t-shirts for a brand according to brand policy, and the media is primed to follow the glint of rogue eccentrics at a street fashion level or else support those who have risen out of the mid-level and who now show in Paris. Now, I know our approach here on this site is very personal and subjective, but I hope that we shine a light on a broad range of designers and brands, but there is no way we could introduce everyone whose showroom, show or whose lookbooks we are sent – it is simply impossible.
Thankfully the Japanese fashion industry is re-acting to this problem through having a number of alternative events around Fashion Week who are not necessarily officially affiliated, but whose goal is to somehow provide cohesion to the industry and make it possible to see everyone’s collections in a realistic time frame, although in all likelihood, even committed (and I mean that in both senses of the word) journalists like Rebecca and I can realistically only lay claim to half. It is a shame, but Japanese fashion is so diverse, with so many niche pockets, subcultures and brands who decide to show as much as a month out of tune with the official week that at some point you just give up and accept it.
The Jafic Platform Presentation aims to be one such solution to the problem at hand, an opportunity to bring industry and creators together for a focused showing outside of Tokyo Fashion Week and hopefully give a bit of guidance to those buyers and media about whose shows and brands they should be covering at Fashion Week in a couple of months time. It is a cosy affair and from what I have seen, seems to be working – simply on the principle that it gives people a chance to see about 50 brands in a couple of minutes rather than going from showroom to showroom and losing days in roomsLINK. It strikes me that simply bringing everything into as small as space as possible, allowing designers a relatively small space to show, and only about 3 looks on the catwalk is a pretty good solution for the enormity of Japanese fashion as seen from the media / buyer side.
Anyway, in the interest of being concise I thought I would just cover the show that was at the heart of proceedings today:
Like I said before the designers were only allowed a handful of looks, and it forced them to get their brand image out as succinctly as possible – although the show itself did border on an hour.
Designers were also encouraged to discuss their work live as it went down the catwalk – here the designer of Molfic talks about his collection.
In-Process was looking wonderful as ever, and it was great to hear Ohara’s commentary on the latest collection. It might not have been the as dynamic as their last fantastic show, but this was an event all about pragmatism.
I would say I discovered 10-15 new brands I have never even heard of before in a single show – as good example as any of how hard it is to stay on top of things in Japanese fashion.
A stunning eco-friendly wedding dress.
Aptform was on fine form, although regrettably his strobe lighting stopped me from doing his work justice.
Hope you enjoyed that little behind the scenes look at the industry side of things here at Tokyo Telephone, and rest assured that we will be doing our best to cover as much of the Japanese fashion zeitgeist as humanly possible.