Tatsuro Horikawa made his long awaited return to the catwalks of Paris with a fantastic S/S 2014 collection that articulated another side of his ongoing design manifesto rather than scraping together just enough ideas to reinvent himself each season as so many of his international contemporaries do. The result was to tackle probably one of the most fundamental pillars of the Julius world – heavy layering – restricting himself instead to single garments with a layered element incorporated rather than the clutter of textures and hanging straps we have come to expect in the past. For that reason you could probably see some silhouette similarities to contemporaries such as older Rick Owens and his building block approach to an outfit, but on closer inspection you start to see the subtle draping, pulling of fabric and shapes that could only come from Julius. This is Julius at its most subtle, diaphanous and delicate, but crucially not as a result of floating draping or sheer textiles, but rather created through hard structures that obfuscated the body, almost challenging the viewer to find the body within the shapes.
The above is a perfect example of the effect at its best, the shoulders are disguised by the pattern and especially in the white gallery setting gave the wearer a fleeting form, a ghost certainly, but with substance.
At first glance there were a lot of looks that looked like they could have sprung from the MA Julius unisex diffusion line, but give it time and you will start to see that there are more than enough hard masculine shapes to enjoy, including sharp shoulders and the all-important high neckline that is spreading like wildfire through menswear in Tokyo right now.
The trousers above pull this way and that with every step, disguising the actual shape of the leg, and the high shoulders and low armhole distort the length of the arm – there is so much going on here, but it all makes so much sense.
The wirst cuffs add a huge amount of substance to the more delicate ensembles, and I love the way that Horikawa couldn’t resist adding a layered element to the piece.
The shape of the season had to be the strength of the V at the neck, in this case through the zip construction which is also a great example of the fake layering that pervaded the line-up.
This stern shape is another favorite of mine from the season, if it turns up in a light leather I am sold.
The peep toe boots are always a sticking point for fans abroad in my experience, but trust me in the heat of SS Tokyo these will be very welcome.
You can see the video of the show over on the official site and we will have more from SS 2014 for you very soon, even if there are still FW 2013 exhibitions going on in Tokyo right now!