Juvenile Hall Rollcall is feeling positively peaceful for AW 2013-14 with a Tibetian Buddhism themed collection that almost makes you forget about the drugs, bad taste culture and new world order themes he has gone into in the past (don’t worry his Honey’s Dead partner in crime Hiro is feeling as offensive as ever). Instead we have natural imagery, soft furs and relaxed silhouettes that take the urban nomad look of Ura-Harajuku into pastures new. Helping designer Tai Irie along are regular crew-mates Yoshirotten and Kou (who you will know from Bodysong’s work) providing illustrations and patterns along with new additions Sato Kayo and Rolling Thunder. This communal approach to design is one that has long been key for Harajuku street favorites such as Undercover (where Tai himself cut his teeth) and is emblematic of Tokyo fashion’s connection with the street – here the street artists who graffiti the walls and the graphic designers working on gig flyers are also the ones making the textiles for the labels, talk about wearing the street.
The other key collaborator is shoe brand Juco, who I first came across at Macaronic last season, a genuinely talented Tokyo based artisan responsible for the killer mouton boots in the collection. Together they have come up an evolved oversized silhouette with just enough tweaks on the winning formular to make sure that this will fly out of Honey’s Dead later this year.
The mix of organic and tribal patterns is held together by the central print of Tibetian imagery which mixes the two in a rare moment of calm for Juvenile Hall Rollcall.
Elsewhere the oversized fur t-shirt is a key styling point and is a nice street level play on the idea we saw crop up over on the runways of Paris.
Moving on to the exhibition:
It is the brightest and most positive I have ever seen for a Juvenile collection, for the record the designer did study Buddhism at university before he made the shift to fashion and he told me that this was him at peace with his work.
The beautiful boots from Juco – like everything here they are sized for unisex wear.
For his leathers he has turned to the masters at Blackmeans for this fringed beast.
Here you can see the fur t-shirt in a natural rabbit colourway.
On to the details and you can start to pick out the Tibetian influences.
This is the illustration from Sato Kayo that was the inspiration behind the whole collection, a beautiful take on the idea of reincarnation – at least those bunnies have gone on to a better place…
We will have Hiro’s AW for you shortly, and don’t worry, Juvenile may be at peace right now, but Hiro is still out to push the boundaries of bad taste fashion.