Those left cold by the current direction favored by Undercover and the new Number (N)ine would do well to look to Juvenile Hall Rollcall for a reminder of what real Ura-Hara culture is all about. Designer Tai Irie’s brand Juvenile Hall Rollcall is authenticity through and through, the shop – Honey’s Dead is a graffitied mock mental hospital in a nondescript Harajuku building that he created along with fellow designer Hiro, his staff meetings take place at skate parks and he doesn’t let the media inflate his ego nearly as much as he should. His collection is as ever destination material, packed with unique fabrics and the kind of details that used to make the aforementioned brands the cults they became. In this collection Juvenile Hall Rollcall is themed around subversion with references to authoritarian regimes and the coats reversible giving the wearer the option of blending in through down to earth street-ready fabrics, or else this season’s signature print that might well stop traffic.
The tone is lighter than the last couple of seasons, but it is still packed with subversive references to skate culture and totalitarian regimes. The fit is on the boxy side with some Chinese worker wear throwing in a handful of tighter silhouettes that are mostly entirely unisex. Those put off by the commitment required to pull off the wide legged workers trousers or some of the bulkier jackets can always go for some of his psychedelic camouflage printed streetwear or else there are a ton of edgy printed t-shirts waiting for you in the showroom which we will be having a closer look at very soon.
For now join me as we look through the lookbook from Juvenile Hall Rollcall which is themed on regimes from around the world.
The thing that gets me with JHR every season is the amount of effort that goes into the unique textiles, in this coat alone you have three great textures visible and another one lurking in the lining.
This vast graphic print turns up as the lining in most of the collection and is large enough that it doesn’t need to be repeated.
Really love the cut in fabrics on this jacket next to the subtle Chinese worker’s wear references.
The vibrant camouflage fabric on the far left looked great in the flesh, but more of that in our showroom coverage.
In coats like this you could really see the potential that Juvenile Hall Rollcall has beyond his brilliant prints and textiles. The silhouette feels fresh around the shoulders and you can remove most of the bulk for the height of the summer courtesy of some cunningly placed buttons.
Stick around for more from Juvenile Hall Rollcall and Hiro in the coming week and let me know if anything takes your fancy.