Kohshin Satoh is one of those intangible Tokyo institutions who like Rynshu chooses to present his collections in Paris but whose style is inherently very much located in the world of Japanese fashion. I suppose that I personally would catagorise the look as the highest possible point of street fashion, just before we slip into the realms of luxury, but having said that his work really is accesible, ready to wear, but with a rare credible showmanship that has won him some very big fans in very high places. I guess his current low profile just might be due to the fact that he has been in the business (and hugely successful) since the 80’s, so now he does not really have a lot to prove as it were, happy to sell out of a handful of boutiques and producing the kind of intriquite work that is probably lost on even a fairly savvy consumer.
Continue reading for the men’s 2011 A/W collection and stay tuned for the women’s in due course.
And just a peek at the women’s side of the brand, just to show that it continues in a very similar stylistic vein.
If you have been with us for some time here at Tokyo Telephone I think you can tell that I am a fan of this industrial gothic vibe that permeates this collection, albeit in this case in a slightly glamourous way. I also really like the mixture of organic detailing on strong shapes, best exemplified by that crocodile skin patchwork jacket – lovely stuff.
I think the only problem with this kind of luxury street wear aesthetic is that the elite brands like Kohshin Satoh have been more than a little undermined by the base level of street fashion in Japan. Whereas outside of Japan there is rarely a serious alternative to this kind of look (especially menswear) in Japan you can get this look for a fraction of the price at a couple of OIOI favorites, not to mention 109-2 who can be relied on to do a decent copy at a decent price. Yes, you compromise on quality and in the context of Japan that will be noticed, but outside of Japan there are few who will. It does amuse and sadden me in equal measure that most foreign luxury brands are so readily understood in Japan, but there are only a handful of Japanese brands that have any currency abroad.
Hopefully that is a trend that can and will change in time, which brings us back to the subject of Kohshin Satoh who actually has built up a dedicated international following who mirror the Tokyo playboys who have brought this brand its initial success. And if you want to join them you can check out his homepage here and beyond that I can only wish you the best of luck in adding some to your wardrobe.
Well I hope you have enjoyed this look at this brand, it is one to add to your mental list of the elite forces in Japanese fashion – definitely one to aspire to.