Here at Tokyo Telephone we are sometimes faced with a dilemma as to whether to feature a brand that doesn’t definitively fall under the remit of “Japanese Fashion”, but in a world where a US brand like Lone Ones has its primary market in Japan and Julius exhibits in Paris the boundaries of countries and culture become increasingly irrelevant. On the other hand, despite exactly one third of KTZ’s design team being Japanese their influences are tied to the city of London, but then again they are vastly popular on the streets of Tokyo and I think you would struggle to find an issue of Tune or Fruits that did not feature something from KTZ in it. In the spirit of not getting bogged down in the details and just enjoying great fashion I am not going to dwell on the scope of this site and justify this by saying – KTZ is without a doubt one of the most relevant UK brands in Japanese street fashion.
In their latest collection that blasted through the relative calm of this year’s London Fashion Week, KTZ expanded on two of their favorite subjects – tribalism and London club kids – so expect the ethnic details of their pre-fall combined with enough straps to fill a specialist Soho shop.
It is glam, but also a little bit seedy as well – fitting given the flagship Kokontozai’s location in Soho.
KTZ can always be relied on to lavish a couple of common details across the entirety of any given collection and along with the straps, I think they are on to an absolute winner with this African beadwork. Whereas the current season fluorescent Middle-Eastern patterns do rather limit its wear to the coolest of the cool Candy kids (and 2NE1) but combined with the black palette I can see this being rocked by more than the Trump Room regulars and right into the streets of Harajuku where you could mix this up with a couple of vintage pieces from Berberjin.
The basics of the collection are direct from the London club scene and it feels like KTZ are acknowledging the Sick and Boy London influences in some of their fits.
Never enough straps… The eagle-eyed amongst you might notice the ones all down the leg on the those jeans.
A very nice use of a Soho favorite – the Blacksmith’s leather apron.
And another winner in the form of the leather kilt that just adds that little bit of edge to the outfit – not that it needs it…
Absolutely love that collar, the black base just about makes it wearable – just.
And finally the two themes collide in the form of a beaded strap!
If you are in the market for some KTZ then their official website will be your first stop, followed by Fake Tokyo to see the current season. Either that or you could just go to almost any street snap site and I am sure that you will trip over a nice dose of KTZ before long.
Personally I have always been a big fan of KTZ on other people, but thanks to the heavy black palette used in this collection I might well take this opportunity to join this very cool club next year.