Time is ever charging on in the fashion world, leaving me with very little time to round up the best from last fashion week before we are treated to the A/W 2012 offerings from Tokyo very soon indeed. One of the collections that I could not let get unnoticed is this great debut collection from new brand Mabuya Mabuya. The illustrious backing of the brand that accompanies designer Koichiro Higa are a team who cut their proverbial teeth at Jean Paul Gaultier and Opening Ceremony, and the brand has already built up quite a head of steam with a high profile showing at Fashion Week Berlin.
Given that the brand had already showed in Berlin it did not directly exhibit as part of Tokyo fashion week, a situation that will probably change for next season, but we caught up with the team at the Design Festa Gallery exhibition in the heart of Harajuku where we were treated to a collection probably best described as “dressy punk”. The inspiration for their debut came from the literal wardrobe of a friend of the designer who goes by the name of “Time”. Apparently this guy’s closet was packed with tartan, zips and old piercing jewelry from his days as a street punk, military items from his time serving in the army and finally some more formal wear that he sports at the moment. This idea of creating a collection as an abstraction of a character (real or fictional) is something of a trend at the moment as seen in Makin Jan Ma’s output as well as TELLSIT’s S/S 2012.
Either way it has produced a clear concise collection that should be a great start to the brand with plenty of fun details to separate it from the crowd, but not too much to chase anyone off. Highlights for me are the use of piercings as clasps and general adornments, and likewise the zips that fulfill the function of changing the silhouette as well as quite frankly – looking cool.
The lookbook is clean, under-styled, but gives you a really good idea of what to expect from this brand in the future and given the solid backing it is being given behind the scenes – you will be seeing more from Mabuya Mabuya in the future.
For the record the name of the brand in the Okinawan dialect means “to return the soul to the body”, a sentiment I think we can all get behind considering the amount of beige on the streets of Tokyo at the moment.
To stay on the case there is an official site and I for one will keen an eye out for this brand next fashion week.