I’m so in love with the neo-goth/dark-haute/watchamacallit fashion movement that’s going on right now, and Masahiko Maruyama‘s Nude autumn winter 2011 collection for women ties in beautifully. Long gone are the baggy trousers and stripy armwarmers I remember from my youth (or should that be yoof?), replaced with elegant drapes and futuristics shapes. Plus a few crucifixes chucked in for good measure. Goth has grown up, and I love it.
I hesitate to use the term ‘mannish’ when describing this collection – instead I think I’ll plump for ‘genderless’ instead. Mannish to me brings to mind the kind of language used in gyaru magazines when they use items such as neckties, braces and blazers in otherwise feminine outfits. Japan has a pretty interesting concept of the difference (or lack thereof) between gender equality and gender neutrality – I’d love to elaborate more but alas, that’s about as much as I can dredge up from the ol’ memory banks; university was a few years ago! Maruyama’s Nude also encompasses a male line too – it’s a fantastic way of getting a little insight into how the designer himself views the gender of clothes. Ah, a subject that’s very close to my heart! One day I hope I’ll get the chance to really dive into the deep end on the topic of gendered fashion in Japan…
Before I disappear too far into the world of fashion academia, it’s time to get Nude!
Hgnghghgnghgng. (Dear readers, I have collapsed on the floor and am now gurgling to myself. Please send help.)
At the same time as I would expect this kind of subtlety from Saint Yohji, I can also see elements of Japanese school uniforms for boys – the legendary 応援団 ouendan, perhaps? Yeah, I’m reading a little too much into a coat…
This is similar to what I’m wearing today, I had to check there wasn’t some kind of parallel dimension going on. There isn’t; I’m not that pale.
Lush. Sorry, I’m too busy concentrating on the fact I have two piercings in exactly the same place as the model. I do have eight more piercings around and about though.
The leather cuff details. The sheerness of the back of the coat.
It took me couple of minutes before I realised that the t-shirt matches the floor! Genius! Haute-camouflage.
If I didn’t have a strong aversion to those kind of padded gilets, you’d have to forcibly remove me from this outfit.
Hello, fabulous coat! I wonder if I could get away with wearing just this in the summer? Totally worth it.
That’s just beautiful. A surprisingly organic shape.
Very Gareth Pugh. And that’s all I need to say.
The quilting kind of makes me think of Vivienne Westwood’s squiggly pattern – used to great effect here, along with the touch of fur at the collar.
Not a fan of khaki, but damn those are some great zips.
Blazer-ific. So versatile.
Well. That’s totally cemented my love for Nude. I have strongest urge to a) paint my nails black, and b) raid all of Nude’s stockists worldwide. Okay, gotta run…