Mista Mista is an underground fashion designer who has been quietly selling avant-garde underground fashion out of Xanadu in Harajuku with 4 successive seasons themed on circles, but now the designer, who very rarely appears in public, has themed a significantly more aggressive collection on squares. With this new bold approach, whereas previously I might have admired the art behind the clothes from afar, now I can see them in my wardrobe, or any wardrobe for that matter. At first glance there are easy comparisons to be drawn to one of my other avant-garde street fashion favorite – Gareth Pugh, as both designers clearly love a geometric design, hugely labor-heavy production techniques and are not afraid of a metallic fabric, but dig a tiny bit deeper, and there is a lot of identity to the collection and the designer.
Mista Mista has a complete ethical production policy, which means that all leather is fake, and the textiles and dyes are all vegan safe. This means that there are a lot of synthetic fabrics in their place, but this is no bad thing as high-quality synthetics these days are just as good as any other fabric, and it actually ends up binding the collection together in futuristic cohesion.
The key shape throughout the collection is obviously the square, which turns up most prominently in the very complex (and unbelievably precise) fabric folding as above. That experimental detailing is balanced with a minimalist approach to pockets and other panels, and all packaged in very wearable street style pieces so that you would be happy to roll into a convenience store wearing it and not feel out of place.
The diamond shapes on the arms of this jacket caught my eye, but felt like they were crying out for a zip so they could be used as pockets.
The synthetic fabrics did create some surprisingly rich textures in places – in particular on the skirt element of the above.
From the front you can see how the skirt incorporates into the outfit as a great optional layer to spice up the outfit.
The slightly 3D square patches were really put together, and cemented the overal high quality of construction that many other ambitious designers seem to fall short of.
Feel free to get lost in the squares and metallics…
I am going to go out on a limb here and predict great things for Mista Mista. I can see it being a hit with club kids, but also paired down and worn with sobriety, because although it has a nice level of glam in the gold, is is also surprisingly restrained thanks to all the black.
You can make up your mind over at the official site where you can also see some alternative ways of styling it, and stay tuned for more underground fashion on Tokyo Telephone very soon indeed.