Mista Mista is an underground fashion designer who has been quietly selling avant-garde underground fashion out of Xanadu in Harajuku with 4 successive seasons themed on circles, but now the designer, who very rarely appears in public, has themed a significantly more aggressive collection on squares.  With this new bold approach, whereas previously I might have admired the art behind the clothes from afar, now I can see them in my wardrobe, or any wardrobe for that matter.  At first glance there are easy comparisons to be drawn to one of my other avant-garde street fashion favorite – Gareth Pugh, as both designers clearly love a geometric design, hugely labor-heavy production techniques and are not afraid of a metallic fabric, but dig a tiny bit deeper, and there is a lot of identity to the collection and the designer.

Mista Mista has a complete ethical production policy, which means that all leather is fake, and the textiles and dyes are all vegan safe.  This means that there are a lot of synthetic fabrics in their place, but this is no bad thing as high-quality synthetics these days are just as good as any other fabric, and it actually ends up binding the collection together in futuristic cohesion.

The key shape throughout the collection is obviously the square, which turns up most prominently in the very complex (and unbelievably precise) fabric folding as above.  That experimental detailing is balanced with a minimalist approach to pockets and other panels, and all packaged in very wearable street style pieces so that you would be happy to roll into a convenience store wearing it and not feel out of place.

The diamond shapes on the arms of this jacket caught my eye, but felt like they were crying out for a zip so they could be used as pockets.

The synthetic fabrics did create some surprisingly rich textures in places – in particular on the skirt element of the above.

From the front you can see how the skirt incorporates into the outfit as a great optional layer to spice up the outfit.

The slightly 3D square patches were really put together, and cemented the overal high quality of construction that many other ambitious designers seem to fall short of.

Feel free to get lost in the squares and metallics…

I am going to go out on a limb here and predict great things for Mista Mista.  I can see it being a hit with club kids, but also paired down and worn with sobriety, because although it has a nice level of glam in the gold, is is also surprisingly restrained thanks to all the black.

You can make up your mind over at the official site where you can also see some alternative ways of styling it, and stay tuned for more underground fashion on Tokyo Telephone very soon indeed.

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3 Responses to Mista Mista A/W 2012-13 Collection – Square Pusher

  1. Andrew says:

    Wow, I am really liking what’s going on here. I have actually really grown to like square-shaped design just in the last few months or so (probably no coincidence that the new wife has a thing for squares as well), so it’s awesome seeing a collection (or just three or four outfits) built upon them. I have to say the giant gold squares and awesome back skirt on the jacket really caught my eye, but my favorite piece might have to be the simple black shirt with the folded squares and square buttons, which feels somehow subversive to me even though a simple square doesn’t seem like it should feel very unusual. I also would love to see the gold pants with a black stripe incorporated into a tuxedo somehow, but I’m not sure if that would actually be a good idea or not…

  2. Andrew says:

    EDIT: After looking at the official site, it looks like that tuxedo idea wasn’t quite as crazy as I first thought..

  3. Samuel says:

    @ Andrew

    Glad you had a look at the site, they made good use of the space at Abydos, but there are a decent number of coordination possibilities with the collection that weren’t well represented at the exhibition.

    Anyway, I really like that shirt as well, in times of price and wearability that would probably be the single item I would pick out as well. On the other hand if money was not a problem…

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