This Mercedes-Benz fashion week Tokyo Molfic offered a remarkably literal love letter to the city in a stoic collection that referenced the gargantuan architecture that surrounds us in pseudo-tribal patterns. Girders, plateaus of concrete and strong architectural shapes all found themselves reworked in print and pattern form, ultimately creating a new Tokyo tribe that gracefully made their way down the unconventional mirrored catwalk. At first the collection seemed simple, the structure of the clothes expected, but gradually the depth of textures, patterns and fabrics made their presence felt and while no single look had the impact that a catwalk presentation usually promises, it cumulatively was a rock solid collection that offered no point of criticism by all accounts. Simply put Molfic understands the concise perfection that their Tokyo audience demands and they give it to them, and what with international tastes echoing this mood at the moment, it might well find a place abroad next season.
The real talking point of the collection was the technology behind the work, Molfic having been a student of Issey Miyake which has directed the young designer towards hi-tech fabrics that are as much part of the collection as the fashion design. Appropriate for the summer season the fabrics will apparently cut creases, allow air flow and be easy to wash and dry – needless to say they have all been researched and manufactured in Japan as part of the growing movement for Japan to take the lead on the technology of fashion in the future.
The show was a perfect match for the rather stoic Tokyo we find ourselves in at the moment. There were nods to progression with shorts that blurred into skirts as the fabric swished, but by and large this was a Molfic taking comfort in the structure and foundation that keeps the city strong.
Molfic can be found in Restir in Tokyo and in their online shop if you are partial to their chilled vision of Tokyo fashion and I have many more dark artisanal brands from the showrooms and exhibitions of fashion week to share with you soon. Don’t worry, Julius and the Viridi-anne may have long left for Paris, but there are plenty itching to take their place at Tokyo fashion week.