Mulling over when to post this… ahem (sorry, couldn’t resist!). Samuel did an excellent job of rounding up Yoshio Kubo’s autumn winter 2011 collection before, not I feel like I’ve got something to live up to – maybe Kubo feels this way about his women’s fashion line, Muller of Yoshio Kubo.

Muller of Yoshio Kubo is, as I’m sure you can gather from the even the first image, strikingly different to the key male looks which centered largely around re-appropriated hiking gear – only the chicest explorers need apply for Kubo’s adventures. I get the feeling that Kubo wanted to show off his skills a little more with the Muller line, as sharp tailoring, contrasting textures and a look back to some classic 1960s elegance made for a collection that was a perfect exhibit for his talents. I really love it when designers expand to create both male and female fashion lines, Yohji Yamamoto of course being one of my favourites, as I enjoy being able to see how the collection themes translate for both genders. Truly boundary-pushing fashion is often found more in female fashion than male (maybe there’s more to subvert?), so I’m hoping that creators such as Yoshio Kubo will help to even up the stakes a little…

The predominant colours this season were mustard and black; last winter camel tones were big business in the fashion world, and although this isn’t a huge leap forwards in terms of colour palettes (but do look out for the printed silks!), there’s more of an edge here than the previous year. There’s a cheeky nod to the main male looks in the styling – keep an eye out for high-heeled snow boots and furry hats!

I would like beautiful silk cocktail pyjamas, please. I promise I would wear them everyday…

 

Read on for more…

Love: batwings, drapes and grown-up playsuits.

Love: swing coats, bronze trousers and the half shawl (tres Comme des Garcons!).

Love: printed silk, texture and wonderfully wooly nomadic jumpers.

All in all, I think this is a pretty solid collection with plenty to inspire for this winter. We also saw some great retro tailoring from GVGV, so I’m really hoping that’ll be taking off again this winter – I think I’ll have to continue my never-ending search for the perfect pair of trousers…

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