It is a testament to how bewilderingly vast just one subculture is in the world of Japanese fashion that even now there are key brands that we are only just getting round to covering.  Today it is the turn of Onii-Kei favorite,Men’s Knuckle master and brilliantly named: Murder License.  It is always a good barometer of the median level of fashion in Shibuya 109 Mens, as although other brands may push a more specific vision, Goa = tribal, Buffalo Bobs = Mode, Jackrose = Biker and so on, Murder License go with a quintessentially Shibuya-tinged mix of those latter styles.  Not to say that they don’t manage to stand out, in fact even though their base level is cool, credible and (relatively) stripped back, they do always seem to push out a couple of key items each season that are aggressively avant-garde, including their funnel necked jacket with about one metre of fabric in the neck alone which might well have found its way into my wardrobe last year.

This A/W season they have followed the 109 Mens pack and separated their collection into a gothic street style line and a host-friendly glossy suit line to rival Sos Te Nuto.

This is from the slightly smarter line and has already managed to beguile me with that razor sharp tailored jacket.

I have to say that even Japanese host styling has demonstrated a move to simplicity in recent years.  The suits are rarely shiny, the hair is altogether down to earth and the shoes have lost their pointy toes.

Although it can still be found if you look hard enough!  It will never die and for giving men an opportunity to wear suits like this without having to agree to becoming a groom at the same time, I salute you!

Into the streetwear now and already I am on safer ground.  Tangible Julius influences abound, although the conventional approach to trousers keeps this on safe Onii-kei ground.

Love the nice slouch slacks in the above, a great clean classic look and a really accesible look for those wanting to expand their fashion horizons.

Just time for a couple of my personal picks from the collection:

Price at around 18000 yen with stretch panels on the arms and waist you are really going to be hard-pushed to find a better way to update your wardrobe without breaking the 40000 yen mark.

Could not resist the classic Host jacket on the left, but there are also plenty of nicely cut credible bits of tailoring to choose from as well.

And finally some nice Autumnal wardrobe stapels that anyone can enjoy.

That is it for Murder License this season, let me know what you think and if you are in the mood to buy then you can potter on over to Rakuten where you can find most of this for sale already (the official site does not seem to accept orders from abroad at the moment).  Stick around for more Shibuya street style mixed in amongst the impeding fun of Fashion Week and good luck against the Yen…

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