Sometimes I feel like I have to convince people to pay attention to some brands that are fairly under-reported. Well, in the case of the underground Shibuya leather tailor – No, No, Yes! I need not make that much of an effort. In short they make the coolest of all leather items to be found (and made) in Tokyo including… Glow in the dark leather. Which, given that I saw Tron Legacy earlier this week, is exactly what I want to be wearing right now. Continue reading to see it in action…
On the second day of Christmas Tokyo Telephone sent to me: Pioneers of the leather underground.
OK, so this is the jacket in normal light as you trot around the streets of Tokyo.
As the sun sets…
Into the dark…
And yes this is hard dyed into the leather so it will take a very significant amount of time before it loses its glow in the dark properties (think years). The guys at No, No, Yes! are serious pioneers of the leather world who always try to do something new with what is the oldest clothing material on this planet of ours. That I would admire on its own, but they also craft it into beautiful creations that seem timeless and distinct from the trends of mainstream fashion.
A normal trench you might thing. No. This thing is almost entirely seamless. They have used the largest cuts of leather imaginable and layering of leather to avoid the need for as much sewing as humanly possible. I just admire the philosophy of allowing as much of the original natural material to shine through as possible and return the leather to its organic origin instead of modern plasticised clinical leather.
Every piece they make challenges something about modern leather work, in this case they have found a way to use heavy bleaching on leather without damaging it (too much) producing the wonderfully textured jacket above.
Here they have used the same Japanese paper transfer method that Yasuyuki Ishii is famous for.
And this is the technique that brought No, No, Yes! to my attention. They use a mix of ink jet printing and transfer to do the best printed and patterned leather I have ever seen. In my opinion it looks best when they use it on Pig Skin that lends itself well to artificial aging so they can achieve the wonderful vintage-look leather above pretty effortlessly.
But don’t worry, if deep black rocking edge is what you seek, then that is what their Shibuya flagship predominantly stocks. I love the imperfections, use of raw edges and simple stark cuts – timeless and individual.
If they combine leather with anything, it tends to be heavy cotton which they have no problem with printing on as well. Oh, and check out the Louis Vuitton monogram on the one above!
Given that they originally were (and hopefully will always continue to be) tailors. They are no stranger to custom orders – in this case a stunning dress.
So I hope I have managed to give you a good idea of the guys at No, No, Yes! They are not really a brand given how small their operation is – i.e. that it is two guys who do most of the work, in the heart of Shibuya and by hand. But that just makes it all the more remarkable that they take on the big players in the business and outdo them (and how). So if you are thinking about investing in a jacket, these guys should always be considered. For me they represent the true underground of Japanese fashion – inventive, effortlessly edgy and crucially with that all important standard of finish.
Definitely get involved with this brand, support them and bask in the glory of what they get up to next. And on that subject check back here soon for their foray into the world of collaborations… Till then, check out the video of the first jacket in action and more of their odder experiments on their channel.