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Gokai Nakano Broadway – A New Frontline for Tokyo Fashion

By Samuel On March 5, 2014 · Add Comment

Ever since Mikio Sakabe prophetically aligned his class of cheerleaders to the place in his remarkable AW 2013-14 collection this time last year, the writing was on the wall for a fashion revolution in Nakano Broadway, west Tokyo.  Already known worldwide by collectors of the weird and the wonderful, Nakano Broadway pulls in aficionados of esoteric art, occult paraphernalia, militaria, and of course the rarest of the the rare anime and manga collectables that would have even hardened otaku raising their eyebrows – but crucially not fashion, that is, until [...]

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rooms 28 – Omotenashi – Defining Japanese Hospitality

By Samuel On February 19, 2014 · Add Comment

Thanks to Christel Takigawa’s hypnotic use of the word in her capacity as Olympic ambassador the word “omotenashi” has become a rallying cry bound in self recognition for a value system at the heart of Japanese society.  In translation the dictionary will falter, often distracting English speakers by calling it “selfless hospitality”, implying a subservience that misses the symbiotic empathetic relationship at the word’s core.  Regardless, it is a concept that you cannot escape in fashion, whether industry side or a consumer, omotenashi is nearly always the goal, and often the reality of service in Japan.

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Bunka Fashion Graduate University Fashion Week – The Real Power of Japanese Fashion

By Samuel On February 9, 2014 · Add Comment

As you might well be given to expect from the output of the country as a whole, fashion education in Japan is a very different beast from that found elsewhere in the world, and, while I may be biased in my judgement, no bad thing too.  With its dizzying number of technical colleges and bastion of talent – Bunka College, all focused on the fundaments of fashion over outright creativity, the criticism oft leveled is that the stringent system files away individuality, a view oddly at odds with the stereotype of “wacky quirk” that external observers like to [...]

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Leonard Wong – Exhibition in Garter Gallery Koenji

By Samuel On January 30, 2014 · 3 Comments

Bunka graduate Leonard Wong treated us to a feast of angular leather and progressive gothic stylings at his first full exhibition at the Garter Gallery housed in the hub of the Tokyo avant-garde, the Kitakore Building in Koenji.  It marked the culmination of his more theatrical graduation pieces that have graced the bodies of the usual suspects, including as you might expect, Lady Gaga on tour, but alluded to a more wearable/commercial second line to be announced later this year, as well as an prelude to his projected debut at Paris Fashion Week in 2015.  If that introduction [...]

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Bodysong – Future Revolutionaries

By Samuel On January 19, 2014 · Add Comment

bodysong is gearing their futuristic Tokyo tribe for revolution this season drawing from the city’s history of militants, beatniks and student protesters, and channeling them through their own distinctive futuristic lens into an abstract snapshot of insignia, digital camouflage and increasingly aggressive silhouettes.  The materials are on the rise too, with the same faux-layered rounded shoulders of previous collections that would have been made in jersey now rendered in Gore-Tex and crisp translucent artificial textiles, all the while giving bodysong the chance to experiment with taped seams and new methods of textile printing.  There is also a greater [...]

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