Here at Tokyo Telephone, as well as covering all the best that domestic brands and Japanese street and subculture fashion has to offer, we like to keep an eye on the high end too! After all, it’s the influence of the couture catwalks that over time make it’s way onto the streets and into our wardrobes.
For every Japanese designer, the dream is to exhibit at Paris Fashion Week (the reasons why Japan Fashion Week is largely overlooked is an article for another time, I think!), so here’s my pick of the cream of the crop, the Japanese highlights of the Paris ready to wear runways shows for autumn winter 2011 – from structure, to flowing shapes, to gothic lolita dreams, this is why we love Japanese fashion…
Sadly, this will be the last collection produced by all-round genius Dai Fujiwara for Issey Miyake, but he’s certainly going out with a bang! Form and structure have always been key in Miyake designs, and this was reflected both in the prints used as well as the cut of the garments shown – folded collars being a look repeated on most items. From the beautiful black and white origami structured 3D shapes that were constructed on the catwalk (something of a Miyake signature now) that made the Issey Miyake brand a true fashion icon, to the interpretation of a houndstooth theme throughout much of the items, this was a stunning end to a wonderful time at Issey Miyake for Dai Fujiwara.
Highlights: dip-dye stockings, intricate folding, Escher-style prints.
Perhaps not the first name on your lips when talking about Japanese designers with international acclaim, Limi Yamamoto has nonetheless carved a career out of her fantastic fashion skills. This collection from Limi Feu deliberately androgynous, with models wearing barely-there make-up, heavy boots and biker jackets. There was a huge Japanese street fashion influence too – floral prints, flowing drapes and a pared-down chic that brought to mind the best that Japan has to offer in terms of world-class fashion. I also couldn’t help but fall in love with the oversize pear-shaped black coat (second from left) that leaves me craving all things dark and mannish – keep hold of your ties, Samuel!
Highlights: biker-chic, black and white, masculine style.
It’s been a while since I’ve fallen so head-over-heels in lust with an entire collection – not since Gareth Pugh’s show earlier in the week, actually – but I want everything that Yohji Yamamoto has produced. Sensuously, glorious gothic; black is back for good! It was a show of contrasts too: sheer fabrics and flat army lace-up boots, black and red, and dark eye make-up paired with candy-coloured high twisted hair. My favourite from the collection, and from this season, has to be the stunning red outfit with white cage skirt – a Japanese gothic lolita fashion fan’s dream come true. In conclusion: I love it, I want it, I must have it all.
Highlights: velvet and lace, witch-couture, everything.
My stand-out favourite has to be Yohji Yamamoto, of course, but what’s been your Paris Fashion Week collection of choice?
*** This post also appears on the Brighton Fashion Week blog ***