In rounding up the A/W collections that we haven’t quite got round to covering before we move on to the rapidly approaching S/S 2013 season, I can’t believe that I have neglected runurunu’s lookbook.  We did cover his installation at Fake Tokyo and exhibition here, but how could I pass the opportunity to showcase the brand’s natural muse – Sioux, wearing the clothes as they ought to be?  You may recognise her from our coverage of Wut Berlin’s A/W 2012-13 presentation (or from any number of street snaps), and she has to be one of the few models who can pull off runurunu with her day to day make-up and hair (give or take a can of hairspray in this case).

As ever the key concept with runurunu’s clothing is the extension away from the body he presents.  In the past this extension has often seemed somewhat mechanical, drawing obvious comparisons between the robots that crop up in Japanese pop culture.  However, like the evolution of the aforementioned super robots, with this collection his work has taken a turn for the organic with chest panels that bring to mind futuristic abdominal muscles or else alien tentacular forms in the arms.

He is also a designer who is not afraid to take risks, and while there is nothing as obviously yonic hanging at the crotch level of his dresses/long tops as in previous collections, it is a re-occurring theme for him and all part of his extension of the body.

His palette is much the same as ever this season, but with his piercing blues and greens notably toned down in the proportion they play against the blacks and reds.  Perhaps you could say it is a little more commercial, but that does not seem to be a problem for runurunu as his clothes are almost always sold out across Tokyo – indeed one of the most common emails I get is how to go about buying designers like this from abroad, well you have my sympathy, but it is hard enough for us in Tokyo!

The clothes often have multiple ways in which they can be worn with larger arm holes which can also function as vents if you decide to use the secondary sleeves that hang like tentacles when not in use, as you can see in the picture on the right.

Another key addition is larger Buddhist prints which have long been a feature of the underground techno scene in Tokyo, but this time elude to a spiritual extension from the body.

This bold ensemble that takes its cues from traditional Japanese martial arts garb is my favorite of the collection, and in its solid black core with cocoon-esque elements falling away from it is a perfect transition from what we saw in his conceptual installation into reality.

Failing that, these simpler paneled jumpers should be a relatively safe sale.  I was checking out the one on the left in Gokai last weekend in Akihabara, and I must say it is very well put together indeed.

I am afraid I still have no official homepage to send you on to, but rest assured that when there is anymore news from this brand, we will have it here for you on Tokyo Telephone.

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