I am always delighted when I spot a jewelry brand in amongst the brand list for Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week Tokyo (formally Japan Fashion Week – I wonder which people will actually use). Previously Hollow and a handful of others have given it a go, but it is still a rarity for a jeweler to want to present their work in a fashion context and rarer still for any of the vast number of silversmiths I have talked about on this site to include themselves in that context. A real shame in my humble opinion given that most of the jewelry that is considered “fashion jewelry” is either absolutely unwearable or made of the same quality of materials as you might expect out of a Christmas cracker (give or take a bit of rhodium plating). But now is not the time to rant about that, especially as we are in the calming presence of the wonderful Rusty Thought.
They are a wonderful artisan brand who use a mixture of classic Japanese jewelers techniques to create very modern jewelry and objects. Key amongst these are cloisonne enameling (intricate enameling basically) and Ohaguro which is an iron-based dying technique that the female Japanese gentry used to use to blacken their teeth – hence the name. In jewelry terms it can be used to create a really strong patina that develops overtime which unlike that in silver doesn’t polish out. But that is not all, over the years I have spied on Rusty Thought in the various magazines, Gondoa in Parco Shibuya and Drama in Shinjuku, I have also seen classic ivory illustration techniques and all manner or engraving.
Their incoming winter season is florally themed to accompany the bridal collection (More Japanese bridal here) and features a real variety of objects to accompany the jewelry and accessories.
A lot of the work that accompanies the collection should really be thought of as a scene-setter or art to get you in the mood for the actual pieces.
I like the idea of contrasting the transitory flowers and feathers with the permanence of the actual collection.
Flowers that will last a lifetime is the theme here.
Love these great handworked settings.
And I have a real weakness for rough rose cut diamonds as well.
I believe there is even a couple of scarfs in the collection as well:
It should be said this this collection is something of a departure for Rusty Thought after their slightly more aggressive Imaginary Tribal Jewelry collection that first caught my eye with these beauties:
But that just goes to show the versatility of the brand and how they pitch their work towards a distinct concept each season like a fashion brand would, over the constant honing of a singular style that jewelers tend to.
So what can we expect from them this Fashion week? Rest assured that I will be keen to find out.