Rynshu may be one of the most inaccesible brands in terms of price and availability that we write about here on Tokyo Telephone, but you would be mistaken if you were to think that the brand’s influence ends with the Aoyama elite fortunate enough to wear these wonderful clothes day to day.  Instead season on season you see Rynshu inspiring a huge amount of Japanese men’s fashion, from his surprising use of textiles to his very identifiable cuts, the influences others take are really quite palpable – right to the street level.  Having said that, Rynshu is still one of the last remaining status brands in the Japanese market to still hold on to its absolute prestige, even compared to the European powerhouses who you can pick up second hand or on discount racks, this is one brand that you still have to try to obtain – something most people have forgotten the luster of.

Mercifully there is a whole lot of substance beyond the status and in this AW 2013-14 we find Rynshu on fine form exploring a timeless dark elegance packed with vampiric and military references.  The twist in this mostly menswear collection comes in Rynshu’s use of fabrics that might traditionally be found in women’s fashion, but here turn up as foppish flourishes befitting of Tokyo’s dandys.

Rynshu is very much a designer on his own path, each season a play on the same ideas, here one of his favorite jacket shapes turns up exaggerated with a gothic vibe.

Each model walked in their own spotlight during the show – and on an appropriately red carpet.

Rynshu’s twists on luxury are never too far from the street level to seem irrelevant, but he is in a league of his own when it comes to this level of use of couture materials in Japanese menswear.

Love the slits on the arms of the jacket here.

Rynshu’s cute mascot is a regular feature in the shop, but I can’t help but wish it had stayed off the catwalk!

The addition of pleats to the front of the sarouel trousers is a really nice way of making the relaxed a little more elegant.

The whole collection seemed to be trying to find the elegant in punk, biker, and other street fashions, and by and large I think it works remarkably well without getting off track.  After all, what is considered dressy or smart is something of a fixed feast, by definition it is a situation when you are in accordance with societal norms, and it is also fundamentally time for fun, so I see no shame in donning my shiny Rynshu jacket for the right occasion instead of my usually dour one.

A lovely mix of texture.

An interesting mix of military references through both the armband and the tonbi-esque cape.

I hope you enjoyed that rare trip into luxury Japanese fashion, there are a good number of real high-end brands for women in the Japanese marketplace, but aside from Rynshu there are not that many domestic brands that reach this peak, something which makes Rynshu all the more valuable.

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