We may have been enamored with Tokyo’s culturally led fashion over the last week, but now it is time for something with its feet firmly on the ground – that with any luck will be worn in due course as we head out of the Japanese winter and into SS 2013. Shunsuke Hatakeyama is a leading light in a new wave of dark credible clothes from Tokyo, especially now that Liberum Arbitrium is feeling somewhat sporty and Julius and The Viridi-Anne have articulated their niche so comprehensively that we pretty much know what is coming season on season. We are going to be taking a look at this darker side of Tokyo Fashion Week over the next couple of days and along with an ex-Julius leather designer and a bevy of other fresh takes on austere fashion there is a lot of solemnity to be positive about in Tokyo of late.
Shunsuke Hatakeyama’s SS 2013 concept is the Japanese ghost (Yuurei) archetype that he has articulated through pleasantly inconsistant weaves and hand dyeing to create a feeling of smoky translucency without using any of the sheer fabrics you were probably expecting. Actually, despite the fabrics being very light, they are also quite thick and there is a hearty bulky feel to the collection that you probably wouldn’t assume would work for summer, but trust me, it is as light and breathable as you could hope for. There was also a slightly unexpected amount of gathered fabric that created a nice amount of structure in otherwise louche fabrics, look at the defined shoulders in the above for example, and the stacked hood on the shoulders below:
Overall it is a progression towards a refined and defined identity that Shunsuke Hatakeyama is moving towards at a pace, there are a surprising amount of variations on each piece and also some great showpiece all-in-one tsunagi that really encapsulate the silhouette he is pushing for. Take your time and enjoy:
Absolutely love the weave on the above – stunning.
For more on Shunsuke Hatakeyama you can head to his official homepage here and we will have a closer look at the line-up in the showroom for you very soon indeed.