Currently viewing the tag: "julius"

Tatsuro Horikawa’s brand Julius is arguably the most important menswear brand in Japanese fashion today.  No other brand reaches the avant-garde on the hunt for fashion as a means of artistic expression, while at the same time appeasing lovers of artisanal perfection looking for the perfect blend of silk woven through python skin, while also being the aspirational option for street punks of the Tokyo underground, and somehow not forget salary men who can only wear Julius on the weekends.  It is a perfect balancing act of inclusivity, which might surprise given how progressive and subversive Julius actually is, but it is the kind of fashion that [...]

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Tatsuro Horikawa has teamed up with one of the most powerful buyers in the industry – H. Lorenzo in Los Angeles to curate a special shop space in which to showcase a re-working of his stunning A/W 2011-12 Collection Halo.  But rather than this being a simple collaboration that in real terms does not exceed a handful of accessories or a t-shirt or two, this is a localisation of his work for the L.A. market.  On top of that he will be personally curating the shop within a shop with personally constructed hand-wrought bronze sculptures that look like they have sprung from the dark mind [...]

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As an avid fan of Tatsuro Horikawa’s cult brand Julius it was actually quite difficult to find a hook in his eagerly awaited Spring / Summer collection shown as part of Paris Fashion Week.  On one hand we had seen it all before – there were the sumptuously fitted leather jackets, monk-like robes and leather straps in abundance that we have come to expect from him since his 2009 S/S and seminal goth_ik collection, but on the other hand, we have definitely never seen it done so well.  This time the collection was concise, perfected and felt entirely like “Julius”, yes the cargo trousers are fundamentally simular to the [...]

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Tokyo Metrosexual

On January 31, 2011 By

Metrosexual isn’t a buzz word that we’ve heard for a while, but I’m willing to dust off this old chestnut firstly in order to talk about the Japanese brands showing menswear at Paris Fashion Week, and secondly because the title sounds quite nice.

I’m a huge fan of Japanese menswear at both haute and street levels: I love the silhouettes, dark colour palette and of course the experimentation with materials and trends, something I feel is missing from the vast majority of men’s brands in the UK.

This January in Paris Samuel and I as Tokyo Telephone, as well as [...]

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A perfectly placed presentation from Julius this year, which saw his renegade models thumping through the affluent and historic heart of Paris a stones throw from the Louve.  A very literal setting for his collection that I will grudgingly admit suited the work acutely and put to rest my grumblings that his work belongs in the concrete of Tokyo.  A clear shift for the designer Tatsuro Horikawa, and as much as I maintain that his work is born of Tokyo, the chilly hall in Paris was perfect for his clean dystopian presentation.

This collection saw Julius far removed from the street punk post apocalyptia of 2009-2010 that culminated in a [...]

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Having talked about the effect of the western dystopian future on Japanese fashion through the context of Mad Max, I thought I would complete the picture with a look at the Japanese apocalypse and the cyber-punk neo-Tokyo that would go on to spawn fashion giants like Julius.  My first look at this world came through the seminal film Tetsuo: The Iron Man (1989), but you cannot mention this aesthetic without mentioning the anime classic Akira (1988).  A discussion of Akira will be coming in the next couple of days, but for now, meet the iron man…

Continue reading for [...]

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Julius S/S 2011

On November 13, 2010 By

This has been sitting on my desk here at Tokyo Telephone for quite some time, so apologies if you have seen it before – but I couldn’t not write about it.   Along with all the excitement of Japan Fashion Week it reminded me that amongst all the spring/summer collections this is probably the one I am most excited about.  On top of that I can’t help but feel a tiny bit of pressure when I write about Julius, not only is he quite rightly on his way to be crowned the king of modern Japanese Fashion, but this is exactly how I wish I could dress (almost) everyday.  You see, when I [...]

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BRAND: JULIUS

On August 2, 2010 By

Fashionista favourite the world over Julius has managed to keep something very quintessentially Japanese to his AW 2010 collection despite the aforementioned international appeal.  Clearly cut to fit the world of Japanese street fashion designer Tatsuro Horikawa manages to incorporate elements of couture into hard-wearing practical collections – this is street fashion at its peak.

goth_ik is the theme of the collection and there is something very dark and classically gothic about the look, but in the same way that he has managed to temper haute couture to the street, so too has Julius managed to stay heavily on the side of street credibility while exercising his considerable [...]

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日本語が話せる。

常時取材・企画、プレスリリースなどを受け付けています。質問があれば、遠慮なく聞いてください。