TELLSIT is one of many underground Shibuya street wear brands that prefers to stay under the radar, catering to fans of Undercover and its contemporaries on the hunt for variation in their subversive streetwear. However, they do make a low-key appearance at Tokyo Fashion Week (last one here) where a taste of their line-up is displayed in a typically no-nonsense fashion. This time was no exception, with a sea themed collection packed with anti-nuclear power sentiment from the designer’s personal activism.
The designer (who likes to keep a low profile) wanted to capture the inherent juxtaposition of the ocean as a thing of beauty, but also of danger. As an island nation which places such cultural significance on all aspects of marine life, I cannot stress enough how damaging the idea of sleepwalking into ecological disaster has been to the Japanese psyche and the idea resonates well when displayed through fashion. In this case the idea of invisible threat working well through hidden signifiers in the fashion works well and elsewhere hidden jewels in cuffs add well to the theme of hidden danger, but also beauty.
The installation started with the Bybros space in Shibuya being starkly lit and then steadily flooded with smoke untill the clothes were hard to see through it.
The core of the brand is pretty unisex with a heavy focus on streetwear items, but they do reach to dresses for women as well.
The centerpiece (for me at least) is their ring design above which they reinterpret each season and can regularly be spotted on the Tokyo streets.
This season the earthy materials of their last collection were replaced with an emphasis on hand-dyed silks or polyester appropriate for the spring/summer, showing a little more subtlety than the previously conventional denim and wool work.
The women’s took formal meets street to a logical conclusion as in the jacket above.
Whereas the men’s focused on subverting the menswear norms, in this case constructing a shirt with buttoned seams.
The details, like the zip teeth on the jacket above, are the brand’s real appeal and doubtlessly will go down well with the subversive streetwear crowd.
For more on TELLSIT you will want to go to the homepage here, where with a bit of random navigation you can also find past seasons and lookbooks.