I feel like I am always somehow neglecting The Viridi-Anne every Paris Fashion Week season, as my attention seems inevitably drawn to the dynamic presentations of Julius and Rick Owens or else the heavily stylised look books of Inaisce, etc. However, my Tokyo friends, who arguably have an altogether more mature and subtle sense of style, can always be relied upon to get excited about the easy grace this Japanese brand can lend to almost any man, and thanks to them I too have gained an appreciation for it when otherwise my eye would be ever searching for the next stylistic gimmick. It is instances like that, that are the constant reminder you need to ever broaden your own style, and more importantly, recognise the variety that makes fashion so exciting.
This Autumn / Winter 2012-13 , The Viridi-Anne has takens its inspiration from the 1983 Andrei Tarkovsky film “Nostalghia” (which you can get a flavor for on YouTube, if like me you are a philistine when it comes to such things), and it is easy to imagine the collection as alternative costumes for the film. So too do the mix of warm and soft fabrics, next to harsh cuts also seems to alude to the dreamlike atmosphere of the film, where stark moments of high contrast are blended with organic textures.
On the whole the new silhouette that The Viridi-Anne seems to be building toward with each season is increasingly high on the neck, relaxed on the waist, and either cropped or else very tight on the ankle. It is a look that speaks of austerity and simplicity in parts, but with the addition of the high structured neck feels modern and strong. It strikes me as work that could get lost if you were to mix it with many of The Viridi-Anne’s contemporaries, who as I have alluded to, can be a little more obvious with their designs. So my advice would be to not let this collection play second-fiddle to anything else, but pair it with items of equal restraint to let the subtle details sing out.
The mood of the collection:
And selected coordinates from the lookbook:
To me, this is the best representation of the new Viridi-Anne aesthetic. Humble, yet with a quite nobility that I can only hope I grow into one day.
I would also note that this is probably the most adult and internationally friendly collection we have yet to see from this designer. It strikes me that as many of the glitzy high-fashion brands that show in Paris now target the East, so too are the sombre brands in Asia heading West. Either way, as long as there is a market to keep people creating and increase the likelihood of seeing inspirationally well dressed people on the streets, then I am all for it. At any rate the Viridi-Anne remains as popular as ever in Tokyo, which functions well as an ongoing advert for the elegance of restraint.