The best Japanese design sensibilities tend to emphasize the incomplete as part of the creative process, the missing 10 percent making the work engaging, honest and thought-provoking.  The Viridi-anne have enjoyed their powerfully austere moments in the past, where every detail is an exercise in precision, but the Spring / Summer 2012 has a completely different feel entirely.

The fit is louche, the fabrics desperately sagging and the structure intentionally broken.  But oddly enough it does not “feel” casual, and I am afraid that I might use the word “feel” a bit too often on this one, because however you approach this collection it certainly has an atmosphere all of its own and regrettably for me (as the one typing these words) it is rather hard to pin down.

While relaxed, the strength of the simple palette and focus of the details just elevates this from the crowd and you would be hard pushed to find an entire collection as cohesive as this.

Draw strings on the trousers next to the fitted tailored jacket with those nice raw hem sleeves – incomplete in isolation, perfect in composition.

The obviously avant-garde work in the collection has to be the look above – simply fantastic and probably quite accesible.

Another obvious design flourish in the form of the stark hand-stitching on the jacket.

Tailors stitching along with the unfinished cuffs contrast against the sharpness elsewhere in the piece.

The look is perfectly pitched at devotees of a simple, raw aesthetic who might well flinch at the underground edge of Julius.  But there is still something aggressively austere in the work, despite the casual tone.  Personally I would probably travel back to 2008-9 or so when The Viridi-anne had something a little more brooding buried in the layers, but on the other hand there is a grace here that fits the the summer season nicely.

If you want to stay up to date with all the news in The Viridi-anne world then there is a great official blog you can follow here and I literally insist that you check out the collaboration with Tokyo Telephone favorite nude: masahiko maruyama, Stealth Projeckt and M.A.R.S Planet who have put together a thoroughly moving charity project.

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