Its not often I have to start a collection with a massive warning to not actually look at it without reading this explantation – otherwise you might well not give this collection half the credit it deserves.  You see, what might look like a relatively simple body of work is actually built around a very complicated notion – super layering.  This has been Undercover’s muse for his female line this season as well and basically is based on the notion of appearing to be wearing multiple layers, when in actual fact there is just one, and one that is optimized for movement and boiling Japanese summers to boot.  So now when you look at the lookbook you should be able to see wherever it appears to be layered, it is in fact a single item with the illusion of layering worked into it (five faux layers is the most I have counted in a single jacket.)

This does beg the question – why bother?  Well this is fashion afterall, people like layering and the heat of the Tokyo summer usually renders that impossible, so why not?  Likewise a large amount of the other technically proficient elements in the work focus around comfort and heat control, so there are cut out panels of a thin wool and silk mix on the backs of jackets and even the shoes have sneaky cut outs on the heels.

The other element that has to be mentioned in the collection is the proximity to Tahahiro Miyashita’s The Soloist collection that I wrote about the other day.  They are both clearly singing from the same proverbial hymn sheet as regards what is “current” in menswear and given that they both have a pretty simular fan base, that can come as no surprise.

With that said, enjoy the collection:

It strikes me as quite a personal collection, which is after all a big part of the brand for many of the fans who enjoy getting into the music, films and culture that were influencing the designer at the time of creation along with the clothes themselves.  Certainly there are few designers who so obviously reference their influences in their collection, going so far in this case as to actually write lyrics on the clothes themselves (something I might well have done at school…).

There is a great website here if you want to see stockists and so on with a very easily obtainable password – so don’t be put off by needing to obtain it before you proceed.  As for me, I just hope we see a bit more anarchy from this brand next season – but then I am always keen on a bit of that.

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One Response to Undercover -ism S/S 2012 openstrings

  1. […] last time I talked about Undercover they were going layering crazy in their S/S 2012, a collection that has to be seen in the flesh to be believed.  For while there are some basic […]

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