Yes, we’re still wading through the thousands (thousands!) of photos we took during Fashion Week, and so here’s a lovely treat in the form of Yasutoshi Ezumi’s latest collection. Ezumi has worked previously with Alexander McQueen and as a knitwear designer for Aquascutum, so it’s no wonder that this autumn winter winter collection features gorgeous knitwear and a whole host of tiny twists on the theme.
(Awkward segway incoming…) Talking of themes: titled Natural Selection, this was one of a number of presentations that explored the man vs. nature idea that really took over much of Tokyo Fashion Week this season, unsurprisingly considering that the timing of Fashion Week was just a year after one of the biggest natural disasters in Japanese history. I’m really looking forward to writing up some of the other designers that drew inspiration from this theme (you’ll have to wait a little bit longer for my thoughts on Christian Dada’s amazing show, but it’ll be worth it!), and Yasutoshi Ezumi is a great way to kick off this subject matter. Distilling ideas of natural selection and nature’s logical forms into clothing is no easy job, but Ezumi really ran with the theme. There’s a real sense of the appreciation of natural forms throughout this collection, and indeed much of traditional Japanese art. I particularly liked the recurring honeycomb pattern that was woven into knitwear and used a base print for tights, as well as making up an amazing scarf that, along with snowflake shapes, you could manipulate to your own taste, including rearranging individual fragments – a great idea that I hope to see more of this winter.
Of course my personal favourite items involved (naturally) black and drapes, but it was really the knitwear that was the star of the show. From interlinked honeycombs to the repetition of ribcage-like pleats, this was a celebration of nature in all its glory.
The exhibition at Mercedes-Benz Connection, where we also had a chat with the man himself: a charming gent.
I can’t decide with outfit I like best.
Honey and flowers in cream and navy.
I really the strong black collar on the grey coat, a great counterbalance.